Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
alanjay

[TR] Inspiration Peak, Southern Pickets - Northeast Buttress, New Route 7/20/1996

Recommended Posts

Trip: Inspiration Peak, Southern Pickets - Northeast Buttress, New Route

 

Date: 7/20/1996

 

Trip Report:

As I never reported this climb anywhere, I thought it was time. Alex Bertulis, Mark Fielding and Russian climbers Sergei Efimov and Alexei Lebedehin first climbed the North Face of Inspiration in 1977. And since the North Face was repeated in 2004, there may be a spike in Pickets activity.

Dana Hagin and I put up the adjacent Northeast Buttress climb by approaching from the Inspiration/West McMillan saddle, with a couple rappels and down climbing. We then traversed a ledge westward to gain the buttress, about 500 feet above the glacier on the north side.

From there it was mostly enjoyable climbing, with maybe one pitch of 5.10-, a scary loose pitch, a bivy on a good ledge, and the summit on day two. The descent was down the West Ridge of Inspiration.

For the complete story and more quality photos go to: blog

Inspiration-_-Terror-from-East.jpg

Edited by alanjay

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cool. Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to checking out the full story at your blog.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×