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marc_leclerc

[TR] Two White Boys on a Big White Hill - Cheam Peak - Random NW couloirs 5/24/2008

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Trip: Two White Boys on a Big White Hill - Cheam Peak - Random NW couloirs

 

Date: 5/24/2008

 

Trip Report:

So.... I was thinking of going and doing an alpine route last weekend but the weather was going to be super hot with frequent avalanches... I ended up going to a youth confrence in Chilliwack instead. I had e-mailed my friend Jared from mission to go climbing last weekend and when the trip was cancelled we postponed the trip to this Saturday ... our plan was to climb up to the NW bowl of CHeam peak and then hike low angled snowslopes to the toe of the West Ridge to gain the summit. He picked me up at 6:00 at my house and we drove over to the pulloff from the highway where we were to begin our ascent.. We hiked up the creek draining the NW bowl and then moved into the trees to avaid some huge cliffs in the gulley, It was a major slog but we eventually dropped bak into the gulley (now filled with snow) to gear up and hike into the NW bowl... we started up the gulley and just as we were about to get into the NW bowl we got a phonecall.. my other climbing friend Lorne said, "if you look up towards the toe of the west ridge what do you see", and I was like, "holy crap! Its you!" He and his Dad decided to run up to the west ridge earlier to ambush us for no apparent reason.. they didnt go to the peak but they left a cool pattern in the snow for us to look at. We talked and they took off down while we kept climbing up the NW bowl... it was getting hot in the sun and we skirted around the west side of the bowl so we wouldn't get killed by stuff falling on us, it got so hot on the snow that we had to stop and take off our pants and wear just our gore tex shell pants with boxers underneath. We eventually started getting bored of doing the easy snowslope route that Al and Lorne had done so I started looking for an alternative. There were some rock towers above the west side of the bowl and it looked like there was a cool gulley going in between them so we set off to climb this mysterious gulley. We ditched our packs at the base of the gulley and Jared set up a quick belay with my lucky tri-cam and his ice axe. The belays were not really nessecary in the first gulley but we had lots of time and used them anyways, all we had brought was an 8mm, 30m scrambling rope so I led up 30m to a tree sticking out of the snow and belayed Jared up and past me another 30m where he set up a makeshift belay with his ice ax. We stuck to the shady edges of the Couloir where the snow was firmer and less sketchy.. I led up again and set up a belay on a couple crappy bushes and then Me and Jared did some simul-soloing to the top of the first couloir. From the top of the first couloir the slope joined another steeper snowlope going up towards the ridge crest. We switched leads and diagonally ascended the slope for a few more short pitches. Jared's final lead to the crest was quite steep (60 degrees) From there we climbed a cool ridge and up a last short slope (with a vertical buldge of snow) to the toe of the weat ridge... It was getting late and we didnt want to slog all the way to the top so we glissaded and plunge stepped down easier angled slopes back to our packs and then hiked all the way down the trees and creek back to the car at the Highway. Overall the route was super fun with plenty of excitement but not at all scary... there was no gear on any pitches, we climbed from belay to belay.

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Approach Creek

 

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Old Snow Bridge

 

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Cliffs in gulley

 

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Almost in the NW bowl

 

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Our route starts in between those rock towers

 

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Slogging it out in the Bowl

 

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Crap bush belay

 

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Starting second snowslope, above the couloir

 

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Jared Leading on the second snowslope

 

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Heading up more steep snow, Yes Im wearing aviators

 

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Looking down the second snowfield

 

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Red Pyramid

 

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Me leading a super fun section

 

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Jared on a steep section

 

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Final Ridge

 

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Posing at the top of our climb

 

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Big Cheam

 

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Packing up

 

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Snow Pattern

 

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Descending

 

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Gear Notes:

A few slings for tree belays, light rope, ice axe, crampons not nessecarry... aviator sunglasses and my lucky tri cam are a must!

 

Approach Notes:

Up drainage to big cliffs, up forest to bowl... up snow to couloir.

IMG_2765_2.jpg

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OMFG. You mean this isn't a troll?

 

So this guy here (from a recent trip report):

 

btw.. my climb is Called Murder in the Dark and is 5.10d or 5.11a (not sure yet) The second pitch is going up soon too. Did you see the cave to the right of the two routes? I managed to climb out the cave and up the face on TR.. it goes at about hard 5.11d or 12a

 

is the guy above sporting the jeans, external frame, and belaying across what appears to be a ski area?

 

:lmao::lmao:

 

 

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OMFG. You mean this isn't a troll?

 

So this guy here (from a recent trip report):

 

btw.. my climb is Called Murder in the Dark and is 5.10d or 5.11a (not sure yet) The second pitch is going up soon too. Did you see the cave to the right of the two routes? I managed to climb out the cave and up the face on TR.. it goes at about hard 5.11d or 12a

 

 

 

is the guy above sporting the jeans, external frame, and belaying across what appears to be a ski area?

 

:lmao::lmao:

 

 

wtf man.... i dont have an external frame pack.. what is wrong with jeans for hiking through the forest? and the ski field is pretty steep for a ski field.. pics dont show the exposure sometimes... what were you doing today.. sitting on you fat ass bugging highschool climbers out to have some fun...

Edited by marc_leclerc

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OMFG. You mean this isn't a troll?

 

So this guy here (from a recent trip report):

 

btw.. my climb is Called Murder in the Dark and is 5.10d or 5.11a (not sure yet) The second pitch is going up soon too. Did you see the cave to the right of the two routes? I managed to climb out the cave and up the face on TR.. it goes at about hard 5.11d or 12a

 

 

 

is the guy above sporting the jeans, external frame, and belaying across what appears to be a ski area?

 

:lmao::lmao:

 

 

:tdown: Your avatar name is very apt.

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Hell yeah boys! Looks like an awesome day out on the mountain.

 

Extra style points for the approach blue jeans.

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That's right, don't take any shit, do what you want and do whatever you need to feel safe. Just maybe hang out with some more experienced fellows once in a while to absorb some style.

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Hey Marc, you're absolutely right. I was pretty intoxicated when I saw your port last night (no excuse however) and thought the pictures were pretty funny. It was really lame to crap on your TR. I have never ragged on new guys reports in the past, nor do I ever intend to do so in the future. You're also right, I wasn't out climbing while you guys were. Way to get some.

 

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Hey Marc, you're absolutely right. I was pretty intoxicated when I saw your port last night (no excuse however) and thought the pictures were pretty funny. It was really lame to crap on your TR. I have never ragged on new guys reports in the past, nor do I ever intend to do so in the future. You're also right, I wasn't out climbing while you guys were. Way to get some.

 

No problem..... I just tend to get mad cuz i feel like the older guys pick on me for my lack in special gear and 'stylish' climbing clothes.... I just do my best to get out and climb so when im older and can go to more extreme places I will have more experience...

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Hey Marc, you're absolutely right. I was pretty intoxicated when I saw your port last night (no excuse however) and thought the pictures were pretty funny. It was really lame to crap on your TR. I have never ragged on new guys reports in the past, nor do I ever intend to do so in the future. You're also right, I wasn't out climbing while you guys were. Way to get some.

 

No problem..... I just tend to get mad cuz i feel like the older guys pick on me for my lack in special gear and 'stylish' climbing clothes.... I just do my best to get out and climb so when im older and can go to more extreme places I will have more experience...

 

Man, you are doing great. People these days have too much gear anyways. Busting out the rope on the slopes like that is a nice mellow way to learn rope management. Looks like you had fun.

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Man, you are doing great. People these days have too much gear anyways. Busting out the rope on the slopes like that is a nice mellow way to learn rope management. Looks like you had fun.

 

Thats basically why we did it...... we had a lot of time to do the climb so we just took out the rope to test out our speed, rope management, quickly setting anchors and random skills like boot axe belays and simul climbing...

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way to get after it. hope to see more trip reports, don't let the sprayers stop ya. oh yeah and your aviators are stylin.

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enjoying seeing the young kids getting into shit, especially in blue jeans

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Good for you Marc. I know more than one guy who started off doing things like your trip and ended up doing the Eiger, Everest and much more.

 

The key to any climb is just getting out while using the gear you do have. Too many wankers here worry more about their gear and looking cool than actually climbing.

 

Always better to have a rope and not need it than the other way around. Good on ya mate.

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Way to go Marc! It's cool to see kids out climbing routes like this. When I was your age mom was still driving me to soccer practice. Next time the old guys pick on you, tell them where they can stick their ice axe.

:rocken:

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Way to go Marc! It's cool to see kids out climbing routes like this. When I was your age mom was still driving me to soccer practice. Next time the old guys pick on you, tell them where they can stick their ice axe.

:rocken:

 

 

Cool pics, nice way to roll ghetto style bros. :crosseye:

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Some of my first climbs were in jeans, too (I know I'm not the only one). Keep on keeping on. Having fun is what climbing and being in the mountains is all about.

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BTW I have fancy NF and patagonia synthetic climbing pants and junk but they were in the wash cuz i left them on my floor after my last trip and it took a while for them to migrate to the laundry

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I'm glad I read this I still where jeans climbing. Its still ok to wear jeans skiing right?

 

Nice TR! Way more then I have done this year.

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OMFG. You mean this isn't a troll?

 

So this guy here (from a recent trip report):

 

btw.. my climb is Called Murder in the Dark and is 5.10d or 5.11a (not sure yet) The second pitch is going up soon too. Did you see the cave to the right of the two routes? I managed to climb out the cave and up the face on TR.. it goes at about hard 5.11d or 12a
:lmao:

 

is the guy above sporting the jeans, external frame, and belaying across what appears to be a ski area?

 

:lmao::lmao:

 

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