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[TR] King of Pain Spire - Vision Quest 3/31/2007

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Trip: King of Pain Spire - Vision Quest

 

Date: 3/31/2007

 

Trip Report:

Since first reading about it, Vision Quest, a Jeff Achey first ascent classic, has been tripping around my brain for the better part of 2 years. In his guidebook to Indian Creek, David Bloom bluntly describes it as, "a burly route on the east face of the king of pain." Fast forward to Spring 2007, and the end of a much too short springbreak vacation. With 10 weeks of calculus and chemistry awaiting him in Washington, Tyree is super-hyped to end the trip memorably.

 

The King of Pain Spires, Vision Quest climbs the gash between the two towers:

 

King_of_Pain_Spires.JPG

 

 

P1: fingers in a corner to loose blocks, shitty gear, and a bad anchor, 5.10:

 

P1_Vision_Quest.JPG

 

 

P2: Bloom writes, "the first slot is easier and better protected and more fun than it appears, the second is not," 5.10:

 

P2_1_VQ.JPG

 

 

Get some you effervescent sack of Washington softness:

 

P2_2_VQ.JPG

 

 

P2_3_VQ.JPG

 

 

Wild moves lead out of the slot to the belay:

 

P2_4VQ.JPG

 

P2_5_VQ.JPG

 

 

P3: A short offwidth to steep fists to wild overhanging flared hands, 5.10+:

 

P3_VQ.JPG

 

 

P4: Crazy: a steep groove leads to loco stemming between the two spires, and a spicy loose topout, 5.9+. Here's Ty just past the flare:

 

P4_VQ.JPG

 

 

Looking up at the loco stemming:

 

P4_2_VQ.JPG

 

 

The summit was rad, with great views of Indian Creek and the Six Shooters. Lucky for us we ran into wide crack aficianondo Ari Menitove on the way down and he guided us away from these notorious rope-eating grooves, thanks Ari! Beware:

 

VQ_rope_grooves.JPG

 

 

Overall, the route was great. The climbing was good, sustained, and challenging. As with most desert tower climbing there is a bit of crappy gear and spicy climbing, but as long as the 700 pound loose blocks and chockstones stay in place you'll be fine. :crosseye:

 

Gear Notes:

Rack of doubles from green alien to #4 camalots, extra #3's and 3.5's, single BD #5 and #6. Two ropes to rap. For more info and discussion visit: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/indian_creek/105717655

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Holy shit thats a spicy meatball!

 

Thanks for doing that one so I can vicariously enjoy it from the comfort of home and thus save my weak ass for something more sane:-)

 

GRREEEEAAATTTTT TR and love that photo sequence Frosty!

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Nice! Been wanting to try that one.

 

If you liked the loco stemming pitch, you'd love the final pitch of Window Route on Echo Pinnalce.

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So what was ari's beta for the descent? Did you guys rap off the bolts on the north King of Pain tower to the notch between the Butte and the rest of the Bridger Jacks?

Edited by samc

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So what was ari's beta for the descent? Did you guys rap off the bolts on the north King of Pain tower to the notch between the Butte and the rest of the Bridger Jacks?

 

yep, rapped off the north tower into the notch. the beta from ari was to not get our ropes stuck on the first Wild Flower rappel from the notch. not only was there the first set of grooves in the picture to get you knot past, but there was also a second set of grooves a bit lower. i got to watch ari do a knot moving technique in which instead of feeding both ropes on the rappel he locked off one strand and fed the other, effectively moving the knot with him until it had cleared both sets of grooves. never seen that technique before, good beta, just watch the ends of your ropes.

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Awesome to see youre pics.

Congrats gentlemen, looks like you both earned it in the wide.

It's always satisfying when you have to do battle with bigness. Just adds that much more to the memory.

 

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Nice trip report. I did this route last spring around this same time. It is a very spicy but fun route. I didn't realize how big the OW got. Only brought to 3.5. Sure could have used one of those #5's. Gotta love the bridger jack towers!

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Sure the 5 would have been nice but it was of no real use on route. I placed it behind this flake/chock stone that if called upon to catch a fall would have almost certainly blown out of the crack, but your right it was better than nothing. Nice TR Sol- thanks for the good times! :rawk::brew::toad::grlaf: sickie

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