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corvallisclimb

Oregon Bolt Replacement

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Oregons rock climbing routes sport many old rusty bolts in need of replacement. With a generous a donation from ASCA I was given many a bolts do do some replacement work. I figured I would start a thread to let people know whats been replaced, and for people to shout out what they think should be replaced. Most bolts at smith are realaced with 1/2x3.75 or 1/2x3.25 RAWL 5 peice. In the menagerie or areas where hand drilled, I use 3/8x2.25 RAWL 5 peice. All with Fixe hangers, some with rap rings where needed. Post up or PM me if you want to help out and go climb some stuff!

 

Smith Rock State Park:

 

Monkey Face - East Face

2 anchor bolts atop P2

w/ Jim Anglin 2/10/07

 

Picnic Lunch Wall - Original Picnic Lunch Wall aid route:

2 anchor bolts below the roof on p4

w/ Jim Anglin & Cody Peterson Jan 07

 

Mesa Verde Wall - Palo Verde:

4 anchor bolts on top of the 4th class ledge

Jan 07

 

Staender Ridge - Bettes Needle:

4 rap anchors

w/ Cathrine Power Oct 06

 

Staender Ridge - The Dinosuar:

2 anchor bolts

w/ Jake Hector Oct 06

 

Menagere Wilderness:

 

Panorama Point - Essential Reality:

4 lead bolts on P1

w/ Jim Anglin Nov 06

 

North Rabbit Ear - Dod Route:

Most lead and anchor bolts

done by KB 2006

 

South Rabbit Ear - Bauman Route:

Most lead and all anchor bolts

done by KB 2006

 

Turkey Monster - Dod Route:

1 belay bolt atop P2

w/ Nick Dolceck Apr 05

 

Wolf Rock:

 

Barad-Dur:

Many lead and anchor bolts

done by CF & JR Fall '06

 

 

5913Picture_007small.jpg

 

 

 

Note: Not all of these where replaced with ASCA hardware some where done with personal bolts.

 

Edited by corvallisclimb

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If you need a bolting slave, give a hollar. I've probably replaced about a half dozen bolts in various places (squamish, cosumnes river gorge, don't remember where else). I'd be up for trading off hammer duty, being a belay slave, or whatever. I've got some SS fixe hangers and SS rawl's could also chip in. I didn't get to do some planned bolt replacement before I moved away...

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I upgraded a number of the anchor bolts on Abaxas a few years back... probably 8 years ago or so. From the top down new anchors at all locations except the anchor at top of pitch one.

1/2" x 4-5" with Metolius rap hangers and some with welded chain links from Dan Carlson (orig. owner of Redpoint).

At the time I was intending to clean up the entire route with the idea that it deserves to get more traffic as the rock is quite good and the exposure is superb. I may have added some protection bolts at fixed pin locations but cannot recall all the details at this time. Did a bit of cleaning and changed the anchor location for the big pitch up the Dogleg crack. It is now at a natural stance at very start of this wild pitch. Did not replace the hanging belay part way up Dogleg as that would not be used in a free ascent and could problaby be removed.

From what I remember a quick scrub and maybe another bolt or two and this would be quite possibly the best multi-pitch route in the park outside of the Monk.

 

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Smith:

 

New Testiment Slab

 

Revelations/Irreverence

Replaced 3 anchors bolts W Mike Layton Feb 07

 

Revelations/Irreverence

Replaced 4 protection bolts W Ian Roth Mar 07

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Nice work Tyler! :tup:

 

Consider replacing the belay bolts on Free Lunch... the first pitch anchor is okay but top of 2, 3 and 4 could use an upgrade. Great route that would be even better with new hardware!

 

Speaking of PLW I believe one of the two bolts at the top of pitch 2 is still missing on the farmer route also...

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John- Thank you! I thought that was you up there yesterday, I was going to yell but didnt want to sound like a dumb ass. Let me know if you want to get on free lunch again sometime soon we could fix up those anchors.

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I have hung on enough of that crap to REALLY appreciate the work you guys did, thanks for making those adventure routes accessable

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unitll someone figures out how to edit old post im going to just add onto the bottom

 

 

smith

 

Revelations/Irrevernece

3 Anchor bolts

W Mike Latyton 2/07

 

Revelations/Irrevernece

4 Lead bolts

W Ian Roth 3/07

 

menagerie

 

Rooster Rock - Original Route

1 Lead bolt

4/1/07

 

 

whoops! I double posted the above... oh well anyways I went up and rope soloed rooster rock yesterday. After talking to Jim A on the phone decided to replace the one old bolt on the original route thats just been there for ever. Now Rooster Rock one of Oregons original sport routes can easily be lead with no gear at about 5.6R only clipping the lookout bolts and the one new bolt. If you want to safely climb it bring 3 cams 1ea #1-#3.

Edited by corvallisclimb

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Good work Tyler...just talked to Greg Barnes at Red Rocks...He was wonderding what we had been up to with the asca project and I filled him in. See you soon.

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I talked to some climbers at smith last week who said there was a SUPER loose anchor bolt on a buttress just to the left of asterix(if you are facing east) on the west side crags. I dont remember what they said the route name was but I remember them saying the wall had something related to "snakes" in the name. Does anyone know what route(or at least the wall) I am jabbering about?

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they might have been talking about something on either Snake Rock or Angel Flight Buttress - those 2 walls are both basically the same area, and are not far to the left of the pass when facing east.

Don't know which route they'd be talking about, but there are a few new-ish moderate sport routes to the right of split image that see a lot of traffic these days - might be one of those.

 

Edit: I think the newer routes are listed in the red addendum

Edited by hemp22

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How about the rap anchor at the very end of the Marsupial traverse? Those things are pretty sketchy.

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How about the rap anchor at the very end of the Marsupial traverse? Those things are pretty sketchy.

 

I agree....if I had time I would do it myself.

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How about the rap anchor at the very end of the Marsupial traverse? Those things are pretty sketchy.

 

I agree....if I had time I would do it myself.

 

I agree the past few times I've been out there I havent brought the drill.

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