Alex Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 I think Direct East Buttress only has maybe 25 bolts total. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 but it isn't as long. you need to standardize holes per pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Schuldt Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 I love iternet rumors! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marylou Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 Yeah, the Forest Circus has a lot of resources for chopping big long routes that were illgally bolted in Wilderness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 I propose allocating Fee Demo funds to the chopping projects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 No need to. Sounds like people are already grumbling about doing it for free of charge.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Schuldt Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 Where is retrosurus? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 Probably lurking. I dont need him to help me chop shit. Wimpy skinny fuckers want to talk shit. You talk here on the internet. I'll talk my shit by lopping off bolts. First garbage dropp off will be at pube club tuesday. See you there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 Ray, just be sure to remove them properly, and fill the holes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 There are not 12 bolts per pitch! On the first 5 pitches there are 22 bolts. The next pitches average something like 3 bolts per pitch to pitch 11, which has something like 8. After that, there are maybe less than 2 bolts per pitch not including anchors to the top of 18. The final pitches have more, maybe like 8 bolts per pitch? Alex, have you done IB? I think your bolt counts are off by a wide margin. I considered the route to be pretty heavily bolted. Dru, have you done DEB on SEWS? The bolts are confined to two bolt ladders of about 6 or 7 bolts each. Most of the route has no bolts at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 on the first ascent the ladders were longer though. the topo shows 33 bolts in total of which 30 are on the ladders. now that it is a freeclimb there are fewer bolts.. i think they only replaced one in two... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 Alex, have you done IB? I think your bolt counts are off by a wide margin. I considered the route to be pretty heavily bolted. Yes. Whats your guess then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 Well I didn't count, but I remember the two 5.10 pitches having what was probably more like 10-12 bolts in less than 30m. I definitely remember more than 4 bolts/pitch on the first 5 pitches. The only pitches that aren't closely bolted are the chossy ramp pitch that goes up and right (there is an old pin there) and the three (or so) 4th class scrambly pitches in the middle of the route. I can't remember what pitch it was, but there is one point where you have a bolt just below your feet, a bolt around your knees, and you are clipping a bolt above your head. In any case, I think the quality of the route is over rated and the only reason it is notable is the novelty of its length. It's a shame that it has caused so much uproar and conflict with land managers. I recommend that anyone looking for lots and lots of pitches of granite slab climbing go to Darrington or Static Point instead. Any two good routes there will have more quality climbing than IB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtngrrrl Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 I climbed it. Thought it was plenty fun and not over-bolted. Thanks Leland. I and my Oregonian partner had a great time. I hope a compromise can be reached and that the route remains. Yeah, I do think hundreds of climbers have been up there by now, but anyone who thinks a trail has been "built" hasn't hiked up there. Static Point and Darrington are both fun, too. I recommend all areas, but I recommend packing extra courage for Static Point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marylou Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 Mtngrrl, what "compromise" would you suggest for a 23-pitch route put up illegally with a power drill in a Wilderness? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 What about agreeing to go by the USGS-mapped boundary even if it is incorrect? How much in error is the boundary shown on the uSGS anyways? A couple hundred feet, inches, or miles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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