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Crackbolter

[TR] Triangular Slab Next to the Mole/Duolith- Central Corner AKA-Puff the Magic Dragon

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Climb: Triangular Slab Next to the Mole/Duolith-Central Corner AKA-Puff the Magic Dragon

 

Date of Climb: 9/29/2001

 

Trip Report:

The wall is listed in the CAG as "a triangular slab..corner..climbed by Pete Doorish...5.7, etc" (See "The Mole" and you will find the paragraph on the slab)

 

The route had obviously been climbed before so it is confirmed that Pete Doorish did the first ascent although we found this information out just after we had climbed the route.

 

The first pitch is 5.8, the central corner pitch is the crux at 5.10+ and the final pitch is a splended hand crack to the top. Descend by traversing the crest and a short rappel into a low angle sandy gully.

 

This is an ideal second day route if you are planning on climbing the Mole, Blockhouse or Duolith.

 

Given the quality of rock, exposure and location, I think this route deserves to be repeated many times. It is a bit short for the approach but well worth the effort.

 

 

2012puff-med.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

Standard rack to 3.5"

All pitches have very good gear!

 

Approach Notes:

We approached the route by hiking up the Hook Creek Drainage (From Icicle Creek) and traversing the Edward Mesa then hiking down the gully that leads into the Rat Creek Drainage.

 

You may bivy either in the Hook Creek drainage (with plenty of water) or on the Mesa which is harder to find water.

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Another approach, which will take about 5 hours is directly up Rat Creek Canyon. Locals years ago beat a small path up the left side. While not as unsavory as it looks, remnents of it are still there today complete with rusty old cans at camps spots. Below the base of the wall is a small pond where they built a picnic table out of logs before the Forest Service decided to try and take it apart. Probably prudent to bring a bivy sack. How many pitches is the climb?

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Great looking wall, when is it going to be dry and warm enough to climb? All I see out my window is the gloom of rain...

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It should be in about the same time as most of the Stuart Range or Cashmere crag routes. The route is 3 pitches. 5.8, 5.10+, 5.9.

 

I posted it so you guys could climb it if you felt like it.

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Why are you posting a TR from a 2001 climb?? confused.gif

 

Why on earth does it matter when Tony climbed the route? Does everyone need to immediately run home and blah blah blah what they did the day previous or earlier that day? Does this delay in time effect anyones decision on repeating a fine route? Perhaps he was gettin motivated for the up-in-coming season and tryin to share some of his enthusiasm. hahaha.gifhahaha.gif

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thanks for the cool TR CRACKBOLTER. Was that another trip with RC? You guys rule! HCL.gif

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c.b. good to see you finally posted that report...i cant wait to get back there this summer and love the stuart range granite again...

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