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JasonG

[TR] The Devil's Tongue - Standard- Illegal Immigration Ridge 9/16/2017

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Trip: The Devil's Tongue - Standard- Illegal Immigration Ridge

 

Date: 9/16/2017

 

Trip Report:

In anticipation of our 2018 unsupported mission to the North Pillar of the Devil's Thumb Scott and I recently completed a training climb of the Devil's Tongue. We feel it is a good step towards our end goal, mainly because we saw THREE bears..... and we hear AK has a few of them. That, and we had to ford a river (THE MIGHTY SKAGIT), fight with a Barred Owl, and scramble lichen encrusted EXPOSED third class rock. It was pretty intense.

 

But the pastoral scenery from camp and the approach to the peak helped to calm our nerves, even when we had to sweep bear scat from out chosen tent site. Intense! The chocolate didn't hurt either. But unless you're planning on the Devil's Thumb next year, there's probably no reason to climb the Devil's Tongue. This report is mainly to save you the effort of finding out firsthand why nobody goes up there (we were first party to sign in this year).

 

See what I mean?

 

the MIGHTY Skagit:

2017Devilstongue34606.JPG

 

2017Devilstongue34612.JPG

 

Jack and Ross Lake:

2017Devilstongue34626.JPG

 

Hard Mox and that wall that Lunger and Layton climbed on Lemolo (separate trips):

2017Devilstongue34662.JPG

 

Luna and S. Pickets:

2017Devilstongue34670.JPG

 

2017Devilstongue34729.JPG

 

More Lunger and Rat FA's, Zorro wall on N. Hozo and NF of S. Hozo:

2017Devilstongue34732.JPG

 

Northern Lights on the left horizon, fire in BC on the right:

2017Devilstongue34750.JPG

 

2017Devilstongue34802.JPG

 

THE DEVIL'S TONGUE:

2017Devilstongue34807.JPG

 

Foxy Moxy:

2017Devilstongue34811.JPG

 

The Impressive NFs of McNaught and Rahm to the right of the Devil's Tongue:

2017Devilstongue34846.JPG

 

2017Devilstongue34883.JPG

 

2017Devilstongue34894.JPG

 

Custer (L) and Rahm ® from the summit:

2017Devilstongue34904.JPG

 

Scott on the summit with Spickard behind:

2017Devilstongue34909.JPG

 

Hazy Pickets:

2017Devilstongue34926.JPG

 

2017Devilstongue34946.JPG

 

Scott inspecting his tax dollars at work:

2017Devilstongue34961.JPG

 

2017Devilstongue34983.JPG

 

Hardman living at camp:

2017Devilstongue34990.JPG

 

2017Devilstongue35014.JPG

 

2017Devilstongue35040.JPG

 

2017Devilstongue35047.JPG

 

2017Devilstongue35074.JPG

 

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2017Devilstongue35085.JPG

 

2017Devilstongue35091.JPG

 

Good bivy on way to Trailhead:

2017Devilstongue35103.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

Helmet, cord for hanging food.

 

Approach Notes:

Old Galene Lakes Trail. Save mileage by fording the Skagit after walking from the Nepopekum day use parking area to river. Follow flagged route uphill on far side which deposits you at Middle Galene lakes. Follow your nose cross country from there.

Edited by JasonG

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Damn! I can tell you that this 3rd class scramble is right up my alley. Hard to top that scenery.

 

I can't believe you posted a picture of the Uber Secret Moderator Cabin. That is supposed to be hush-hush.

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Sweet Collins head. Did you snag it? Put a handle on it and sharpen it up...better than what you can buy in the store these days.

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It is awaiting your ascent of the Tongue Oly! I had no idea what I was looking at other than a breaker bar with an old axe head shoved on top. I will look it up now, I'm curious. And sorry to spill the beans on the top sekrit moderator hideout. Obviously I got carried away when I was inserting pics.

 

Darin- I took that photo just for you.

 

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This is now officially on my short list provided Jason accompanies with all necessary photographic equipment, frog spray and bolt cutters to allow easy access to the hermit hostel.

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There's some good bouldering right next to secret mod cabin. Probably too hard for the moderators though. I mean one problem's V3

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There's some good bouldering right next to secret mod cabin. Probably too hard for the moderators though. I mean one problem's V3

 

I didn't know V3 was even possible!

 

Thanks Mike, glad you liked the photos. That wall on Lemolo is something else....

 

 

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careful there, boy-o, he who listens to that slick serpent's lying tongue is turning his back on his salvation :noway:

 

[video:youtube]

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Nice photos (as usual) Jason. This is one of those areas we'd looked at in Red Fred and on maps and thought about getting into.... if it wasn't such a PITA. Now, thanks to you, age, and infirmity, I can completely write off the notion.

 

Thanks!

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You need to get in there Phil! The hike in from the river isn't bad at all and the ridge running over towards the Devil's Tongue stellar. Even if no peaks are climbed it is a great fall destination.

 

Thanks Mr. Sloth! It is mainly the result of spending way too much time looking at maps and Fred's books, and liking to get away from the crowds. The Cascades never cease to impress me, year after year, with surprising nooks and crannies.

 

And I hate to admit that I hadn't seen that video before Ivan. Damn. Glad I haven't been cut down . . .. . yet.

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Another great trip J ! The new camera, although heavy, delivers.

That area is definitely a place I would go back too.

The amount of raptors flying around on that grassy ridge is amazing. It's a great place to listen to Pink Floyd and get dive bombed by owls.

Thanks JGAP LLC!!

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