Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber


      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  

[TR] Mt Triumph - NE Ridge 8/12/2017

Recommended Posts

Trip: Mt Triumph - NE Ridge


Date: 8/12/2017


Trip Report:

Me, Fred, and Max climbed the NE Ridge on Triumph in a day on Saturday. It was fantastic! Though smoky.


We TH bivied for a couple of hours on Friday night and were on the trail at 2:30 am. We reached the saddle on the trail above the lakes in 2 hours, the col in 2 more. I think it was about 2 more to the notch in the ridge. Summited at 11:30 am, back to the trailhead at 9:30 pm.


Navigating after the campground at the first lake was tough in the mostly dark, we took a few wrong turns. The snow was firm both directions so crampons are advised (as Max learned the hard way). We took a ramp on the right hand side of the gully to reach the notch in the ridge. This was really easy, third class at the worst spot. We simul-climbed the entire ridge except the crux crack, which I followed in approach shoes without doing a single crack technique move - because I suck at those.


We rapped I think 5 times on the way down, near the crux and at the bottom mostly. We found two places where it was more than a 30m rap to the next station... Not sure what that is all about since everyone says a single 60m works. It worked, but was kind of dumb belaying out like 10 feet to the next station. Just make sure the first person to rap has the rack.


The views the entire time from the col were great although there was still a lit of smoke - thanks a lot Canada!


All in all a great day out! We were all pretty wiped by the time we hit the car again, and I was a bit bummed to miss out on the bivy, but the weather called for rain on Sunday. I would say it is moderately reasonable as a single day trip if you are comfortable simul-climbing or soloing low 5th class.


Fred posturing on the summit while the Pickets and Max look on:



Some cool clouds spilling over the ridge between Triumph and Despair (no joke intended):



A colorful moment in the mountains (literally):



Gear Notes:

2 30m ropes

approach shoes

6 cams to 3"

set of nuts

13 runners




Approach Notes:

Doing it in the light would be good, at least until the second lake.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this