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kurthicks

[TR] Middle Fork, Peak 3964 - False Idol, WI3+, 500m 1/6/2017

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Trip: Middle Fork, Peak 3964 - False Idol, WI3+, 500m (FA)

 

Date: 1/6/2017

 

Trip Report:

On January 6, 2017, at the end of a prolonged cold snap, I established a long waterfall ice route on the NE face of Peak 3964 in the Middle Fork of the Snoqualmie River valley with Dave Jordan. Our route climbs two tiers of ice, separated by a few rope lengths of snow covered waterice and snice. The first 200 meters is classic waterfall ice climbing, while the upper bits have more thoughtful protection akin to our local alpine climbing. All told, it is reminiscent of Guinness Gully in the Canadian Rockies. We found the route to be very worthwhile and not overly committing--given the bountiful rappel trees on both sides of the route.

 

2017-01-05-15-53-10-e1483829071832.jpg

Peak 3964 (left) and Revelation Peak (right). The route climbs the right side of the Y-shaped clearing.

 

2017-01-05-15-52-56-e1483828595890.jpg

False Idol

 

2017-01-06-10-02-22-e1483828661297.jpg

The route from the approach

 

2017-01-06-11-36-57-e1483828745191.jpg

Dave on the 90 meter WI3 second step (pitches 3-4).

 

Parties interested in making this an alpine adventure can continue for another couple rope lengths and attain the summit. There is an easy gully on the SW side of the peak that could likely be used to skip the copious tree rappels down the route.

 

The route is named in keeping with the biblical theme of the area.

 

False Idol

WI3+, 500m

FA: Kurt Hicks, Dave Jordan

6 January, 2017

 

 

 

Approach map:

screen-shot-2017-01-07-at-2-26-03-pm.png

 

Gear Notes:

10-14 ice screws, 2 ropes to rappel. No rock gear currently needed.

 

Approach Notes:

Park at the Middle Fork Snoqualmie trailhead. Cross the river and turn right onto the Pratt Connector Trail. Follow this downstream for about 30 minutes until at the bottom of a long set of descending stairs (near a large outcrop with a mini cave in it). Turn left off the trail and ascend steeply up a gully. Continue generally up and slightly left through open woods. Stay to the right of a decent sized flowing creek and gain some large old growth trees. We continued up a short snowy talus field before moving right onto a treed rib and up to the base of the route. If you're bushwhacking, you're blowing the approach. 1.5 hours from the car.

 

Descent was made via rappels from trees on the climber's right side of the climb. Two ropes are recommended, though we did an endless series of single rope raps since we only brought one cord.

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This looked so rad I had to check it out today even though I couldn't rustle up a partner to climb it.

 

We continued up a short snowy talus field before moving right onto a treed rib and up to the base of the route.

 

FWIW one can cut climbers right out onto the slide path before this snowy talus field and with some low angle scrambling gain what I think was the bench that you started your P1 from. This provides a nice view of the route and avoids the talus field and treed rib.

 

Can't wait to get on it.

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very cool! not sure what it will look like in a week from now, but looks good at the moment!

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FWIW one can cut climbers right out onto the slide path before this snowy talus field and with some low angle scrambling gain what I think was the bench that you started your P1 from. This provides a nice view of the route and avoids the talus field and treed rib.

 

Thanks Jake. We skipped the direct approach since it didn't look like there was enough ice on it to make it go. Glad to know it worked for you!

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Myself and Brett Purchase tried to get on this yesterday but found the ice on the first pitch to be very aerated. It climbed great, but the screw placements were all marginal at best so we backed off. We scrambled far up the treed rib to check out the second flow (third pitch), and it looked like it would take better pro but by then it was too late in the day to start up it.

 

Curious if this was your experience as well. I live close to Middle Fork and paid close attention to the weather since the FA, and I didn't think it would have gotten warm enough to deteriorate much beyond the surface ice. When we arrived there was a lot of fairly soft new avalanche debris at the bottom, so I don't think it rained much if at all on the route in the preceding days.

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Hey Kurt- did Dan tell you about False Idol after his ski descent? ;)

 

Nicely done, way to continue to develop the backyard in all seasons!

 

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