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JasonG

[TR] Cowlitz Chimney- Tim gets his 99th Smoot - The Jeff Smoot Express 10/28/2016

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Trip: Cowlitz Chimney- Tim gets his 99th Smoot - The Jeff Smoot Express

 

Date: 10/28/2016

 

Trip Report:

It's pretty grim out there peak baggers. Endless rain, high FLs, a parade of clouds, storms, and short days. It sort of makes the election tomorrow seem quaint. Sort of.

 

Which means you all NEED a dose of some alpine summit glory to help fight the S.A.D. that is surely wracking your life about now. And there is no better cure for a S.A.D. existence than some photos from that hallowed Smoot tick- South Cowlitz Chimney (7605 feet; 15 miles, ~4500' RT). It just so happens that our ascent at the end of last month marked an especially auspicious occurrence... that's right all you Smooters, Tim ticked #99! That means he stands at the cusp of history! I mean, has anyone climbed all 100 in Jeff Smoot's opus, "Climbing Washington's Mountains"??

 

Will Tim be the very first?

 

Tune in next spring to find out.....

 

 

 

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Gear Notes:

This time of year.....sigh....snowshoes, helmet, crampons, ice axe, 40m rope, very light rack, Beckey description (Smoot punted). We were happy to have the rope to rap three tricky steps on the way down. Don't believe Beckey or Smoot, it is most certainly not 3rd class, even when on route.

 

Approach Notes:

Wonderland Trail to Panhandle Gap, cross country to route.

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:laf: They are an evil necessity around here in the fall shoulder season. I hate to say it, but snowshoes were the right choice that day.

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Summerland looks like Winterland. Thanks for the shoulder season trip report and dosage of alpine inspiration!

 

I'm slowly ticking off the Smoots myself and was up there snow free a month ago. I imagine the ledge traverse would be much more interesting with snow. One question, not that it matters but what are your rules for ticking a Smoot? He sometimes gives a couple variations on summits. I think in his book the South Chimney is the variation of the lower Middle Chimney walk up. Same question would go for Mount Anderson vs West Peak and Three Fingers South vs North Peaks. Just curious.

 

Regardless, way to go Tim! Which one is left???

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Tim's last trip will be a top secret South Cascade destination next spring. I got to keep up the suspense. ;)

 

That's a good question, I'm of the opinion to always go to the true (highest) summit, but not sure what Tim is using.

 

I just about turned around on the traverse, but Tim and Steve had made it and not fallen so I felt that I no longer had an excuse with all the snow brushed off the holds. The short chimney right after was challenging with snow and running water as well. We rapped it all on the descent.

 

 

 

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