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travisjburke

[TR] Ingalls Peak - First Alpine! - South Ridge 10/2/2016

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Trip: Ingalls Peak - First Alpine! - South Ridge

 

Date: 10/2/2016

 

Trip Report:

I thought you all might enjoy a short trip report (mainly pictures) of my girlfriend's first alpine route! She's climbed a couple multi-pitches before in Zion, Smith, and Prime Rib over in Mazama, but this was her first mountain route...We're getting ready to do Exum Ridge on the Grand next year, so now its all about getting out there...

 

So many memories of being so happy to be back in this parking lot!

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Hana, happy with larches and Stuart lurking in the snow...

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Me, pointing towards our route.

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Beautiful larches!

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Goats, always goats.

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Hana, at the base finally.

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Relax, and breathe...Look at the mountains!

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Climbing the last pitch!

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Summiting!

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Happy together!

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Rapping...

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Some more pretty shots, with a scenic (but cold) camp:

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Happy to be done (almost!)

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Obligatory parting goat shot

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This was a great time for us, and Ingalls is such a nice jaunt...First time camping in Headlight Basin--I've always wanted to camp there, but have mostly had to pass it by en route to Stuart...

 

Gear Notes:

Third time up the route...placed some pro somewhere?

 

Approach Notes:

Ingalls Pass, up to Headlight, up the slabs and talus couloir. 3 pitches up the South Ridge. Scramble to summit. Rap the route.

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Awesome! I dated a girl and took her up Outer Space, her first multi-pitch route and shortly after the Ccomplete Exum was her first alpine route. She broke up with me on that trip.

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Olympic -- It was gorgeous...timed perfect for larches, a little snow, a little sunshine...I think it's a great introductory climb...mellow, but with a good mountain-y feel...

 

DPS--that sounds like a warning! hahaha! But if she didn't kill me after Prime Rib, I think it'll go!

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DPS--that sounds like a warning! hahaha! But if she didn't kill me after Prime Rib, I think it'll go!

I stopped to belay in the middle of the Black Dike pitch, standing on a telephone book sized ledge with an anchor made of tiny nuts. She joined the belay, looked around, and burst out in tears. After the Complete Exum she wouldn't climb with me for the rest of the trip, so I picked up a couple of college kids at the Climber's Ranch and climbed with them.

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DPS -- I can only imagine!

I did that on (I think) Bishop's Terrace down in the Valley--when my partner came up, his look said everything...my answer, "Because it's there?"

We're working on getting her more comfortable in the mountains, moving quickly and confidently...Quick question--do you think something like the WR of Stuart would be a good "primer" climb for Exum?

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Quick question--do you think something like the WR of Stuart would be a good "primer" climb for Exum?

Ummm, not really. WR of Stuart involves soooo much scrambling and only 3-4 pitches of 5th class climbing. Maybe the upper NR of Stuart would be a more comparable climb. Are you planning on the Full Exum, or just the upper Exum? The lower part is harder than anything above ledge traverse that accesses the upper Exum. Nothing really harder than 5.7, but on the upper I just ran the rope out, no gear other than anchors. Another issue is that rock climbing at nearly 14k is really kind of tough. Make sure you acclimatize for a few days before getting on the Grand.

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DPS--I was afraid you'd say something like that! Maybe we'll do a long siege on the complete NR...that's such a fun route, and last time, I was on a push with partner--no time to simply enjoy how great that route is...

We're just planning on doing the Upper...definitely planning on at the least bivying at the Moraine...but we'll do Adams prior, and spend some days up Rainier--always hard to get the elev time here in PNW.

 

Choada--Yeah, heavy packs! But we wanted to camp in Headlight as part of the fun!

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Nice work. I think we passed you guys on the trail down...I was one of the two middle-aged trail runners that asked you what you climbed.

 

Lee

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ldr66 -- Awesome! Yeah, what did you guys run? Hana felt great being unofficially "initiated" into the club of 'what'd you do?'--the climber beta/stoke club!

 

Cascade Kid--so much! But Hana's a small person, so her bag looks huge! Most everything was for the overnight...took a small summit bag with us that we just left at the base of Ingalls...

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Brought back memories. This route was also my first alpine route, about 25 yrs ago!!! I led the first real pitch, grabbed this monster rack and took off. I might take my daughter up there next year.

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