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About dberdinka

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  • Birthday 11/30/99


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    Cubicle Monkey
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  1. [TR] Vesper Peak - True Grit 9/28/2017

    I've traded in my drill for a mattock. I'm gonna become the Johnny Appleseed of illicit pit toilets.
  2. That's a very nice picture of a frog.
  3. Chris Geisler once posted somewhere on this site that the East Pillar is wonderful solid stone compared to the choss pile of the Navigator Wall. I'd guess his opinion is probably a pretty reliable one.
  4. Where did you find this 6 hr RT track? I was looking at segments in the Twins on Strava but there really wasn't much there. (I don't think I really know how to use Strava...) Sounds like a sketchy descent off the S Twin for sure. That NE Ridge is pretty straightforward.
  5. Twin Sisters - camping and approach questions

    If I was going overnight...I'd go to the Green Creek valley! But if you want to do both west ridges I'd probably ditch my bikes in the woods by Dailey Prairie and climb the North Twin. Return at the end of the day and camp where the road pretty much ends on the south twin approach (big flat area). Climb South Twin next day and bike out. Not an entirely aesthetic place to spend a whole weekend but at least you won't have to go all the way up the roads again.
  6. Hardcore! Sounds like some classic north cascades thrashing.
  7. Emmons Cravasse death

    There has been a slew of skiers falling into OPEN holes this year. Far more than years past. Whether that is just random variation, a result of increasing skier days or due to a change in how aggressive people are skiing could be debated endlessly. Regardless. Based on known accidents over the last 10-20 years Mt Rainier above 12k seems particularly dangerous for skiers with multiple deaths (at least 3 now I'm aware off). Only one of those involved breaking through a hidden crevasse in midwinter.
  8. It was pretty depressing to realize how many years ago that was.
  9. Where are people getting jammed up on the rappel? I think adding a rap anchor (on route) 5-10m above the dihedral belay could allow rapping the route with a 60m rope and probably avoid the one really awkward station to avoid another group. (I think it's possible P1 could be rapped with a 60m but haven't tried it so watch those ends if you do!) A seperate rap route would entail an equally massive amount of cleaning if not more since the arete seemed like the most solid rock on the peak. Not that I have the time or interest in doing so, but if the routes gotten popular would need to shut down traffic for awhile.
  10. Holy Shit. I think that's more like P3-P5 having gone missing. What a shame as P5 was one of the most amazing splitters I've climbed in the mountains. Ugghh..crazy to think I once climbed through all that.
  11. So wait, this is bullshit. You don't even write about the most interesting part of the trip. Tell us about the slog/hitchhike/phone call/wait it took to get somewhere warm and dry.
  12. Buying hand drill... any advice?

    I've done enough hand drilling to be convinced that regular-old HSS bits ground to a chisel point are far, far far more efficient than banging on a SDS bit. (And by all means power drill if your not in a Wilderness area) You have to carefully sharpen a pile of them and need to switch them out after two holes in granite (20+ in sandstone) but they drill out at least twice as quick. (FYI it's basically impossible to sharpen an SDS bit and not have it shatter on the first hole) It will only work with a collet based system. http://shop.runoutcustoms.com/D-5-Hurricane-Drill-D5-HURR.htm Practice, lots of it, on a boulder at shoulder/head level will get you both in shape for and develop technique for drilling good holes. Lots of (GOOD) info on this buried in Supertopo if you do enough searching http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=492354&msg=495736#msg495736
  13. Winter speculation thread

    Keep an eye on the NOAA Climate Prediction Center http://www.cpc.ncep.noaa.gov/products/predictions/long_range/seasonal.php?lead=4 They say warm to start then "normal". Whatever that means these days. Cliff Mass frequently these sorts of things as well. Basically I see another frustrating winter ahead.....
  14. No shit. I think I know two separate parties that hauled a rack all the way in there only to turn around after declaring it munge from a distance. And then you find that.
  15. [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016

    Nice work Matt. Now does anyone ever climb one of the NE Face routes? Don't think I've ever seen a TR for it. Based on the Beckey guide it almost seemed popular BITD.