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Lowell_Skoog

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Everything posted by Lowell_Skoog

  1. New Routes in the Pacific Northwest (nwmj.org)

    This is the time of year when I review notes I've collected during the past 12 months and update the chronologies on my ski history website: http://www.alpenglow.org/ski-history/ I'm also continuing to update the Northwest Mountaineering Journal new route "inbox" on the following page: http://www.alpenglow.org/nwmj/inbox.html The NWMJ inbox now has 236 candidate routes awaiting publication in a future issue of the journal. The routes have not been fully vetted by editors, so the list may change eventually. Most of the new routes I've posted were completed in 2017. But a few earlier routes have come to light. These include: 2016, Supercave (aka M&M) Wall, "Golden Age" 2016, Supercave (aka M&M) Wall, "Maple Glazed" If you find errors or know of unreported routes that are missing from the list, feel free to drop me a line (lowell.skoog@alpenglow.org) or post something here. Thanks!
  2. New Routes in the Pacific Northwest (from NWMJ.org) Readers of the Northwest Mountaineering Journal (NWMJ) may know that the journal has been without a lead editor since I stepped down in Autumn 2010 after the 7th issue was published. I'm too busy right now to lead the effort. Several volunteers have continued work on the journal, but progress has been slow. Since I'm not leading the effort anymore, I can't say when the next issue will appear. For several years, the NWMJ editorial team has used a private wiki to collect information for the journal. Editorial team members browse on-line forums looking for new routes to add to the wiki. Since we don't know when the next issue will appear, I've decided to make the editorial team's work more accessible now. I've added a page to the NWMJ website that I call the NWMJ New Route Inbox. Here is the direct link: http://www.mountaineers.org/nwmj/inbox.html This page is accessible from the top-level NWMJ web page. It is also available from the NWMJ Index of Short Reports. The inbox contains every new route (that I know of) since NWMJ Issue 7 was published that may be suitable for the next NWMJ issue. The list has not been fully vetted by the NWMJ editors. Some routes might not be new or might not be within the NWMJ scope. Currently there are 95 prospective routes listed. We will continue to update this page as new routes are uncovered. Publishing the NWMJ Inbox makes this historical information easy to find in one place and provides a way to get the facts right. The inbox contains just the critical information: date, route, party members, trip report link(s), and miscellaneous notes. If you have comments, additions or corrections to the list, please let me know. An email contact link is included on the NWMJ inbox page.
  3. New forum software!

    Thanks for chasing down a fix for old links, Jon. I am able now to browse to all the old trip reports referenced in the NWMJ new route inbox: http://alpenglow.org/nwmj/inbox.html
  4. best content Help identifying the best content on CC.com

    Too bad the site redesign broke all the old URLs. A lot of FAs were once accessible through the links on this page: http://alpenglow.org/nwmj/inbox.html
  5. A public celebration of the life of Fred Beckey is scheduled for Sunday, December 3, 2017 at The Mountaineers in Seattle. Doors open at 1pm. Admission is free, but space may be limited. For tickets, visit this site: https://www.eventbrite.com/e/remembering-fred-beckey-a-celebration-of-life-tickets-39879444492
  6. Fred Beckey public memorial, Sun 12/3, 1pm at MTRs

    Video presentation from the memorial: http://www.alpenglow.org/people/fred-beckey-devoted-to-mountains/index.html
  7. New forum software!

    Here's a question for the CC.com admins.... Would it be possible to provide some sort of tool to translate old CC.com thread/post URLs to a URL that accesses the same thread/post through the new bulletin board software? You may recall that I've been capturing links to new route information since NWMJ went dormant in 2010. Here's the NWMJ Inbox page again: http://alpenglow.org/nwmj/inbox.html With the change to the CC.com software, all my old links to CC.com trip reports are now invalid. It would be great to have an online tool, or something, to translate old CC.com URLs to the new forum structure. It does appear that all the old threads are still around, but the old links are broken. Is there any way to help with this? Thanks for any help.... --Lowell Skoog
  8. Climbed MHC with a couple friends yesterday and enjoyed it greatly. We were amazed by the friction offered by this unusual rock. The stance at the top of P5 (the money dihedral) felt pretty darn airy with three people there. The intermediate rap anchor on P3 had a loose nut on the left bolt. Lacking any tools, we just finger tightened it. Probably a good idea to carry a small wrench on this climb. The exposure of this climb reminded me of the SW ridge of Delago Tower in the Dolomites, a route I did many years ago with my wife. MHC was more technical, but not quite as scenic. Thanks Rad and Darin!
  9. New Routes in the Pacific Northwest (nwmj.org)

    Thanks Wayne and Mikey for this information. I've added "Slave to Liberty" to the inbox. Regarding "The Circumvention," I'm less inclined to add this because of the guideline we used for climbing routes in NWMJ. We called it The Beckey Rule. The basic thinking was, "Would Fred include this route in his Cascade Alpine Guide?" If so, we'd run it in NWMJ. If not, we wouldn't. It appears that "The Circumvention" is an ice route that goes partway up Bryant Buttress but isn't a complete route on the peak. Seems like it's not the sort of thing that Fred would put in his books. More like something that would appear in a guidebook specific to winter ice climbs. I'm open to your thoughts on this.
  10. New Routes in the Pacific Northwest (nwmj.org)

    This is the time of year when I review notes I've collected during the past 12 months and update the chronologies on my ski history website: http://www.alpenglow.org/ski-history/ I'm also continuing to update the Northwest Mountaineering Journal new route "inbox" on the following page: http://www.alpenglow.org/nwmj/inbox.html The NWMJ inbox now has 204 candidate routes awaiting publication in a future issue of the journal. The routes have not been fully vetted by editors, so the list may change eventually. Hopefully we'll find a way to publish short reports of these routes in NWMJ when someone has more time to devote to it. For now, the raw list is a handy reference. Most of the new routes I've posted were completed in 2016. But a few earlier routes have come to light. These include: 2006, "Black Widow" (Peak 7440+ east of Spider Mtn), First ascent 2014, Kitling Peak, North Face ski descent If you find errors or know of unreported routes that are missing from the list, feel free to drop me a line (lowell.skoog@alpenglow.org) or post something here. Thanks!
  11. [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016

    My brother Gordy and I climbed the 1963 NE Face route in August 1983. Took about 12 hours round trip. No brush, but my notes record some steep brittle rock high on the face before we reached the crest of the NE Rib. That part was a bit nervous but most of the climb was not too bad. The C-J couloir was probably in much better shape back then than it is now. We backed down the couloir in a couple hours. I think getting onto the rock during the ascent would probably also be harder now than it was then.
  12. On a trip to Koolaid Lake last July with my wife, I noted the poor condition of the Red Ledge route. It appeared to me (from a distance) that you might be able to descend a few hundred feet below the west shoulder of Arts Knoll (below and west of the Red Ledge) and climb over it from this lower elevation. This was a distant view and I didn't try it, but it looked promising to my eyes. Worth checking out sometime if you're skunked by the Red Ledge route.
  13. New Routes in the Pacific Northwest (nwmj.org)

    Thanks Dan. I went back to my records, and I've already accounted for Ryan Lurie's 2006 descent. You can find it on this page of my ski-history website: http://alpenglow.org/ski-history/chronology/snoqualmie.html The page refers to Ryan's short report in the 2006 NWMJ: http://alpenglow.org/nwmj/06/061_Shorts4.html#r4 As you can see, Ryan's descent included a rappel and two down-climbs. After Dan Helmstadter made a continuous ski descent in 2010, I decided to document it as well. You can also find it in my ski-history chronology. I just now added a note to the NWMJ inbox mentioning the continuous nature of Helmstadter's descent. Hopefully that will clarify things a bit. One thing to keep in mind is that the NWMJ inbox contains only routes that I've learned about since the NWMJ ceased publication. It appears that the 2010 ski descent of Argonaut occurred just after we stopped compiling new reports for NWMJ #7, which was the last one published.
  14. New Routes in the Pacific Northwest (nwmj.org)

    This is the time of year when I review notes I've collected during the past 12 months and update the chronologies on my ski history website: http://www.alpenglow.org/ski-history/ I'm also continuing to update the Northwest Mountaineering Journal new route "inbox" on the following page: http://www.alpenglow.org/nwmj/inbox.html The NWMJ inbox now has 182 candidate routes awaiting publication in a future issue of the journal. The routes have not been fully vetted by editors, so the list may change eventually. Hopefully we'll find a way to publish short reports of these routes in NWMJ when someone has more time to devote to it. For now, the raw list is a handy reference. Most of the new routes I've posted were completed in 2015. But a few earlier routes have come to light. These include: 1998, Dragontail Peak, "String Theory," new route 2005, Little Tahoma, Lower NE Face, ski descent 2009, Mt Stuart, "Mixed Blessings, Right," new route 2009, Red Mountain, West ("Painted") Couloir, ski descent 2011, Black Buttes, Thunder Glacier Headwall (Pt 8704ft), ski descent 2012, Rocky Peak (Olympics), SE Face ("The Dragon's Tooth"), ski descent 2013, Sherman Peak, Talum Glacier, ski descent If you find errors or know of unreported routes that are missing from the list, feel free to drop me a line (lowell.skoog@alpenglow.org) or post something here. Thanks!
  15. Stephanie Subak Accident at Jigsaw Pass

    To be published in the Seattle Times on Sunday, August 16, 2015: Stephanie Jeanne Subak, 58, died August 5, 2015 in a fall while hiking in the Sierra Nevada of California. She was accompanied by dear friends Annette Frahm, Martha Gluck, and Suze Woolf, of Seattle, WA, who fortunately were not injured. Steph was born on December 13, 1956, in Minneapolis, MN, where she graduated from St. Anthony Village High School and briefly attended the University of Minnesota. She moved to Seattle to continue her studies at the University of Washington. Steph earned a Bachelor of Science degree in Electrical Engineering from UW in 1979. Around 1980, Steph joined John Fluke Mfg. Co. Inc. of Mountlake Terrace, WA (later Fluke Corporation) as an Electrical Design Engineer. At Fluke she met and secretly courted Lowell Skoog, another Design Engineer and UW graduate. They were married on September 17, 1983. With a few short breaks, Steph worked at Fluke until September 2014. Her career spanned several technical and management levels to become Director of Engineering for the Industrial Products Group. Steph was a leader in the company and a mentor to younger engineers, universally admired for her warmth, intelligence, humor, energy and generosity. Always active and athletic, Steph deepened her love of the outdoors through adventures with her husband Lowell. She became an alpine ski instructor, achieving PSIA Level 3 certification. She climbed and/or skied hundreds of peaks in the Cascades and Olympics, including all of the Cascade volcanos. In 1991, she learned to fly paragliders, becoming one of the earliest women in Washington to take up that sport. With her husband and friends, she traveled to India, Nepal, Peru, New Zealand, Central and Eastern Europe, Scandinavia, Canada, and beyond, to tour, climb and ski. In 1996, Steph and Lowell were blessed with the birth of their son Thomas. Steph was a loving and devoted mother, always engaged and supportive as she guided (but never pushed) Tom to discover new skills and activities. She savored family trips throughout the world, but especially to her birthplace in Minnesota, where she enjoyed snowy winters in Minneapolis and crystalline summers on Lake Vermilion with her extended family. In 2014-15, Steph took a sabbatical from Fluke to spend more time with her mother and to volunteer as chairwoman of the Roosevelt High Jazz Boosters during Tom’s senior year in high school. In the process, Steph deepened her friendships within the wonderful Roosevelt parent community. Steph was preceded in death by her father Nick Subak of Minneapolis, MN. She is survived by her husband, Lowell Skoog, and son, Tom Skoog, both of Seattle, WA; mother, Barbara Subak, brother, Brad Subak, and sister, Laura Subak (husband, John Moore), all of Minneapolis. Steph was a loving sister-in-law to Lawrence Skoog (deceased), R. Philip Skoog (wife, Jan Skoog), Anita Skoog Neil (husband, Bill Neil), Gordy Skoog (partner, Kim O'Farrell), and Carl Skoog (deceased), all of the greater Seattle area. She was a cherished aunt to Courtney Cross (Philip), Wendy Gerber and Julie Iriondo; Dana Skoog Questad and Erik Skoog (Gordy), and Nick and Rose Moore (Laura). A celebration of Steph’s life will be held Saturday, August 29, 2015, at 1 p.m. at The Mountaineers, 7700 Sand Point Way NE, Seattle, WA 98115. In lieu of flowers, donations can be made to United Way of Snohomish County (http://www.uwsc.org/).
  16. Stephanie Subak Accident at Jigsaw Pass

    We've determined the date and time of Steph's memorial celebration: Saturday, August 29, 2015, 1 p.m. at The Mountaineers, 7700 Sand Point Way NE, Seattle, WA 98115. I'll write up a complete notice in a few days, but I wanted to post the date as soon as possible.
  17. Stephanie Subak Accident at Jigsaw Pass

    Stephanie Subak is my wife. We were married in 1983. I posted the following message on Facebook yesterday, and re-posted it on turns-all-year this morning. Seems like I should post here as well.... Stephanie Jeanne Subak, 12/13/1956 - 8/5/2015 As the news spreads, I sense in those who knew Steph a desire to reach out, but a reluctance to overwhelm her family. Maybe this forum can help. On August 5, my wife Steph died in a fall during a cross-country backpacking trip in the Sierra Nevada of California. She was with her friends Annette, Martha and Suze, who thankfully were not injured. Husbands Jens, Mike, and Steve have flown to California to support their wives. We are working through the logistics to bring Steph home. Tom and I are well, we are strong, and we are working through this. Steph was dearly loved in several circles--by her outdoor companions, her friends in the engineering world, the parents we've come to know through Tom's school, and her family. I want to reach out to all of you, and let you know how much we appreciate the friendship you have given to Steph. I am certain there will be a gathering in Seattle to celebrate Steph's life. No details have been settled yet, but we'll definitely be doing that. I'll pass the word when we know more. In the meantime, you are welcome to post your thoughts and memories of Steph here. If you would like to send a private message, I recommend that you send me an email. (If you can't find my email address, send me a CC.com private message, and I'll reply with my address.) Steph was our rock. Tom and I have been blessed.
  18. SEWS & NEWS bivy sites?

    Climbed Liberty Bell with wife and son on 7/16 and there was no water anywhere along the approach. The stream where you leave the Blue Lake trail is dry.
  19. I climbed the NW Face three times between 1978 and 1986. Back then, in July, it was generally possible to climb the glacier for several hundred feet on the right side of the NW face rib, then work left onto the rock. This avoided the more difficult lower toe of the rib. I haven't been back in almost 30 years, so I don't know if that is still possible. Once on the ridge, the "chimney" on the left side (where the rib merges into the face) was the crux. We thought it was 5.7-ish. It's a beautiful route, probably my favorite on the peak. We usually bivouacked on the lower north ridge. I don't recall using rock shoes on the climb.
  20. KATU story request - Mt. St. Helens eruption

    7th pitch of Liberty Crack with Mark Bebie. We heard the explosion and thought it was a sonic boom. Didn't hear about the eruption until we pulled into Marblemount late that evening. Businesses were open later than normal because people were fleeing eastern Washington, I guess.
  21. Thanks for the memories. Gary Brill and I also passed the cornice on the left. I remember it as a fun climb. But be careful about the temperatures...
  22. New routes on Rainier?

    Climber's left (east) side of Liberty Ridge has been skied. See: http://alpenglow.org/ski-history/topos/mt-rainier.html I suggested the name "Cryogenesis" to the original ski party and it seems to have stuck. The ski line diverges from the Thermogenesis climbing route fairly low, so I think giving it an independent (but related) name is justifiable.
  23. Posts by fourteenfour - something stinks

    Can't believe I'm actually posting in Spray... What's up with this fourteenfour guy? Over a period of a few hours on March 8 he dredges up 30+ threads from 2004-05 in the North Cascades forum and gives each an inane little one-line bump. Is he a paid troll or what? A few thumbs up I can believe, but 30+ just smells bad. What's going on? It feels like a desperation move to stir up traffic.
  24. Posts by fourteenfour - something stinks

    Criminy, he's all over the Alpine Lakes, Rainier, and Oregon forums too (and more). Give me a break!
  25. An ode to Frenchman Coulee

    Was the area this crowded last winter? Maybe the problem will go away (or diminish significantly) when there's more snow in the mountains. When you can't ski you go rock climbing. When the ski season ends, it's often too hot to climb there. Just a theory...
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