Lowell_Skoog

Here's the text of the short obit: See the following link for my 2008 NWMJ profile of the Fireys: http://www.mountaineers.org/nwmj/08/081_Firey1.html

Most ski areas in Washington now permit uphill skinning. Typically, they have some restrictions. Try googling " uphill policy". Some areas request that you check in with the ski patrol first, others don't. Here are a few links: http://www.stevenspass.com/site/mountain/safety/uphill-policy http://www.summitatsnoqualmie.com/Mountains/Safety/BC-Policy http://crystalmountainresort.com/The-Mountain/Safety/Uphill-Travel http://www.missionridge.com/uphill-mountain-policy My favorite place for skinning workouts is Snoqualmie Summit Central. As of last winter (2012-13) uphill skinning was allowed there, but the ski patrol requires that you stay out of the way of downhill skiers. That means skinning on the edges of runs or even in the woods if there is a tight or low-visibility spot. If you go, please keep out of trouble so you don't mess things up for the rest of us.

Sounds good, Sol. If you do write something, it would be great if you could also post something (a pointer at least) on CC.com. I'm able to browse CC.com and TAY.com looking for news, but it's not practical for me to follow individual blogs (or even know where to look).

Hi Eric, That route has been documented in a full feature article in the 2009 NWMJ: http://www.mountaineers.org/nwmj/09/091_Lemolo.html Most of the routes in the inbox were done after 2010, when the last NWMJ was published.

By "back in the day" do you mean in the 1930s and 1940s? I don't think there has been a ski dorm at Paradise since way back then. There used to be a lot of buildings at Paradise that are long gone today. If you're referring to something else, you'll need to clarify. You can find some notes about the early days at Mt Rainier here: http://alpenglow.org/ski-history/subjects/R-info.html#mt-rainier-park

This is the time of year when I review notes collected during the past 12 months and update the chronologies on my ski history website: http://www.alpenglow.org/ski-history/ I'm also continuing to update the NWMJ new route "inbox" on the following page: http://www.mountaineers.org/nwmj/inbox.html The NWMJ inbox now has 133 candidate routes awaiting publication in a future issue of NWMJ. The routes have not been fully vetted by NWMJ editors, so the list may change eventually. Hopefully we'll find a way to publish short reports of these routes in NWMJ when someone has more time to devote to it. For now, the raw list is a handy reference. If you know of unreported routes that are missing from the list, or adventures that pre-date the listed routes, feel free to drop me a line (lowell.skoog@alpenglow.org) or post something here. Thanks!

You need to decide whether you want skis for skiing or for approaching winter climbs. If you want them only for winter climbing, then it might be worth suffering with mountain boots. (On the other hand, I think some of the newer AT boots may climb pretty well--those with good ankle articulation.) If you want to ski (or if you're just doing snow climbs) then get real ski gear. If you're not already an expert skier, skiing in mountain boots isn't going to be fun or efficient. It's like stepping back to the 1930s. Try checking out the "Yardsale" board on turns-all-year: http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?board=5.0 You might find something reasonable there. There are various ski swaps in the Seattle area. This one is good for generic alpine gear: http://skiswap.info/

Great video! Fred climbs better than he walks. I hope that's not taken as derogatory. I say it with a sense of awe.

A friend of mine died under similar circumstances on Mixup Peak in 1987. He was descending, not anchored, and was hit by a rock after a rappel. He fell down the East Face. I think he may have been pulling down the rappel rope at the time. It's a really good idea to be anchored in situations like this.

Horrible news. Like many, I am sure, I'm eager to learn more about what happened and my heart goes out to those involved. I've been hearing a lot in recent years about how bad the descent from the West Ridge becomes after the couloir has melted out. I haven't climbed Forbidden Peak for many years, but when I was climbing it more frequently, it was common for people to descend the East Ledges route in late season rather than the West Ridge. Does anybody do that anymore? If not, can someone explain why? I know that the East Ledges require some caution, but it sounds like the descent west of the West Ridge couloir (which I have not done) is much worse. Anybody know more?

Here's a photo of my homemade tumpline, made of pack materials bought at Seattle Fabrics: And here's a photo of the tumpline in use on the Downey Creek trail a few years ago:

I have an Arcteryx Needle that I like pretty well for longer trips. They make both 55 and 65 sizes. For me the key to shoulder comfort is a homemade tumpline. I made one out of a mesh material with clips that attach to the pack's compression straps. I find that taking just 10 pounds or so on the tumpline is all I need to relieve my sore shoulders. When I did more overnights each year this was never an issue but today my shoulders just aren't in shape for heavier loads. I only use the tumpline for approach hikes. Interestingly, my shoulders never hurt when I'm skiing. I think it must be the bouncing motion of walking that does it.

I think the key to giving names that stick today is to evoke the history or character of the area without attaching too much personal baggage. The Bill and Peg Stark names for the Enchantment Lakes provide examples, but they haven't been universally accepted. The really early namers had more latitude. People like Sylvester, Wernstedt, Post and Beckey were able to apply a lot more names because they were filling a vacuum. For example, Vasiliki Ridge was named by Beckey for a woman who got away. The Roper names that have stuck have generally been descriptive, like the ones along Backbone Ridge. Zorro Face is a good descriptive name. I've been happy to see a few names that I've given stick. The Watson Traverse of Mt Baker honors Dwight Watson, who first did it on skis. Like the Ptarmigan Traverse, this name honors the pioneers.

Try reading Wayne's post:

It's interesting how people experience routes differently. I've climbed the NW Face of Forbidden three times and have enjoyed it every time. Once with my older brother, once with my younger brother, once with my wife. All our climbs were done early enough in July that we had good seasonal snow on the glacier to access the rock. I've always liked the aesthetics of this line. I suppose you could say it looks better from a distance than up close, but it's not too bad up close, for the North Cascades. I've approached by rappelling from the West Ridge notch (bring pins). But the Boston Glacier approach is more classic.

For more discussion, see these threads: http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=28807.0 http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8005450 Also, you don't have to attend one of the meetings to comment. Fill out the questionnaire at the following link: http://mbssustainableroads.wordpress.com/questionnaire/ All the national forests have to address the sustainable roads issue. But they don't have to do it the same way. Colville, Wenatchee/Okanogan, Gifford Pinchot and Olympic will all be addressing these questions, but I don't know how or when. If anyone hears more about the other forests, they should let us know.

I was surprised by the bergshrund on the Quien Sabe Glacier when I took my wife and son up there a few weeks ago. Does it become impassible in late season? I haven't climbed the Quien Sabe in many years. There never used to be an issue with a bergshrund there, even in September.

It's great to see enthusiasm for this collection. It turns out that UW is not quite ready to have people come look through the collection. They need to complete some formalities and review the collection in detail to make sure everything is accounted for before letting people go through it. I don't know how long that will take. So, you should give UW Special Collections a call before you plan a visit. Thanks for your patience.

Bob Spring (left), writer Byron Fish (center) and Ira Spring (kneeling) select photographs for one of their historic picture books, circa 1960. University of Washington Libraries, Special Collections, Bob and Ira Spring Photographs, Negative #25732. The Bob and Ira Spring B&W Photographs are now in UW Special Collections. For mountaineers who came of age in the latter half of the 1900s, the photographs of Bob and Ira Spring have captured some of the most memorable and iconic images of our Northwest mountains. In later years, the Spring brothers were best known for their 100 Hikes series of guidebooks. But early in their careers, many of their photographs illustrated mountaineering and skiing adventures. Upper left: Joan Burton ski touring near Mt Rainier, c1958 (print #17276). Upper right: Forest fire fighters in the Cascades, c1958 (print #17884). Lower left: Hikers explore the Paradise Ice Caves on Mt Rainier, c1958 (print #18063). Lower right: Climbers at White Rock Lakes on the Ptarmigan Traverse, 1957 (print #16500). Through a collaboration between the Spring family and the Mountaineers History Committee, the Bob and Ira Spring B&W photographs have now been indexed and transferred to UW Special Collections, where they can be accessed and enjoyed by the public. A preliminary finding aid can be seen on the Mountaineers Archives website here: http://mountaineers.org/history/findaids/spring-bw-photos.html Eventually, the University will create the its own finding aid, which will reside on the Special Collections website: http://www.lib.washington.edu/specialcollections/ The Spring photographs cover much more than just mountaineering. During their long careers, Bob and Ira Spring photographed every corner of the Northwest, from ocean beaches to dry scab-lands and from bustling cities to rugged logging camps. The collection also includes thousands of photographs from Alaska, Canada, the western U.S., and much more. Working with the Spring family and the University to make these photographs accessible has been a long and rewarding experience. I hope this donation opens a new chapter in the appreciation of these wonderful and historic images. Upper left: "Valley pounder" at Klapatchie Park, c1955 (negative #5275). Upper right: Fred Beckey climbing Lighthouse Tower, 1949 (negative #3410-x02). Lower left: Morton Loggers Jubilee, 1955 (negative #13625). Lower right: Gary Rose ice climbing on Mt Rainier, c1953 (negative #9128).

My understanding is that glide ratio does not change with altitude, but speed does. Glide ratio is the relative speed forward versus downward through the air. These speeds are both linearly related to air density, so the glide ratio remains the same as the air thins. (Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.)

Since you posted your question on Memorial Day, I'd recommend either the Mt Baker ski area or Mt Rainier (either Paradise or Steamboat Prow). Those areas will have lots of snow for another month or two. Spring is a good time to try ski touring. Watch out for steep slopes when the snow is mushy and cornices anytime.

I believe Peak 7638' is called Martin Peak in the Olympic climbing guide.

Yes, I see it now. It's right above the orange skier in the following picture: which was posted in this TR: http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=24940.0

The last photo is especially intriguing. I don't recognize the location. I'm guessing that it must be from your last day in the Neve area. Sure looks nice!

Here's a nice story about Meany Lodge by Craig Hill in the Tacoma News Tribune. http://www.thenewstribune.com/2013/02/23/2485391/head-to-meany-lodge-for-lessons.html