JasonG

I don't know about the absolute rates of death quoted in Tremper's article, but I do know that I've lost four times as many partners to alpine mountaineering than to backcountry skiing. Small sample size (five deaths) on my part, I know, but I would tend to agree that prudent BC skiing is safer than alpine climbing.

I imagine that this is forecasted danger rather than field measured? I often go out on days rated "Considerable" and ski various aspects/elevations and find mostly "moderate" conditions (based on skit cuts, hasty pits, natural activity, etc.). Of course I sometimes find touchier conditions than forecast, but it is usually the other way around. But, maybe we get off easy with our rapidly stabilizing coastal snow pack? Fascinating analysis though, thanks!

I got my first BB gun when I was six, but I certainly wasn't traveling the world climbing pointy things. Damn. Kudos to you for making it happen, that's quite the impressive family outing!

Very cool trip Mark, and I love the new art as well. I hope things go well for your show!

Yes, thanks much for all the hard and thankless work! It is a pretty amazing resource for us all, and getting better every year.

I forgot to mention that we pushed a herd of about 50 goats from Clark all the way past Luahna. You can see many of them as white dots in the photo of Luahna above. I don't think I have ever seen so many goats in one spot, it was pretty cool.

Trip: Clark and Luahna- Another Bulger is crowned - South side scrambles Date: 9/14/2014 Trip Report: Tim finished the Bulger list, on Luahna. Overall, the trip was a festive occasion with five of us along to celebrate, perhaps a little too enthusiastically. Turns out that you don't need more than a flask of whiskey per person on a one night trip. However, it was also a bittersweet trip, being nearly five years since the day that Tim and I found our friend T.J., dead, on the slopes of Luahna. I think T.J. was on around #87 on the list when he died, and the accident looked to have happened very near the summit, based on where we found him in the talus below. He was probably on his way up as well, given the lack of his entry in the summit register. RIP T.J., Tim finished the list in your honor! Miss you! Luahna with goats below: Stopping for a bit to remember T.J., not far from where Tim and I found him Finished! Clark from Luahna: T.J.'s "Go Juice" of choice: Gear Notes: Helmets. Approach Notes: Boulder pass trail to the Clark Mtn High route. Climbed Clark, then did high traverse over to Luahna. Mostly third class scrambling on Luahna except for one bit of exposed 4th. Clark is a walk up from the south.

Stunning as usual Luke! You're a tough act to follow, image wise.

I thought I was clear in my report that I got my beta from leland and bryan, and I talk about their ascents in 2004 & 2005. Drew and I are talking about ascents prior to 2004. In my report I reference chuck's tr and his quote.

FYI: Lost and Found Forum

Ah, Chuck was mistaken. The standard route is indeed the SW face, though you finish on the NW side of the summit.

??.... that is a link to the regular SOUTHWEST route. We're talking the SOUTHEAST slab.

Interesting, thanks Drew. I remember some really old conversations about the slab on cc.com, but I didn't remember that folks thought it had been climbed before. The register has entries going back to the 80's, but we couldn't find mention of the slab other than Leland's climbs. It would be cool if someone has heard first hand from earlier ascensionists. I have no trouble believing that it had been climbed a long time ago, since it is a feature that is seen quite easily from several major trails, and isn't terribly hard. I am a bit surprised though that old Fred doesn't talk about it.

Scott is doing what us Skagitonians call the wet pony plank. We missed your alpha choss dogginess!

I was wondering the same thing. Marc is just entering his storm years!

Neat project Lowell, thanks for sharing. I imagine it will be hard for us to provide info/contacts that you don't already have easy access to, but you never know.

I've been hearing about this Alpine Mentors program, sounds very cool!

Could very well be- you gotta keep a wary eye on those satanic goats. Thanks for the reminder, it most certainly was another first stomachless ascent by Mr. Trent.

It actually isn't bad, and is pretty cool simul climbing from where you hit the ridge to the summit. Some looseness, but not dangerously so.

Cool, thanks for the details on a route that I've wondered about. I really enjoy your TRs, you should do more of them!

Trip: Bears Breast - SE Mega Slab Date: 9/7/2014 Trip Report: I still haven’t figured out why some climbs grab my attention and keep it, but the SE slab on Bears Breast is one that I’ve had on my list for about ten years. This wasn’t from the typical sources of inspiration- Beckey makes no mention of it (though it is prominently featured in a photo), and I had never even been anywhere close to Bears Breast in person. I heard about the climb through my friend and early climbing mentor Mike, and the description he relayed from Bryan Burdo was intriguing and stuck with me. About a year later, I read Chuck's excellent TR where he referenced the “mythical East slabs of BB mountain” and the hook was set. Fast forward to 2010 and I finally got around to doing some research on the route. Somehow I got Leland Windham’s and Bryan’s emails and started pestering them with questions. They were both very generous with beta and patient with my questions, and detailed the history of the feature as they knew it. Neither were aware of any ascent prior to Leland and Bryan’s 2004 climb (anyone else know of other ascents?), but the nature of the slab makes it difficult to know if parties have come before. The climbing isn’t very technical if you follow the paths of least resistance (sustained 4th, with bits of low-mid fifth to link weaknesses) and Leland and partners didn’t rope up on either ascent in August of 2004 and 2005 (different lines each time). To reach the summit, one traverses north from the top of the slab to the Beckey route. Snow patches cling to the slab into the summer, so usually August or later is the best time for an ascent. I was pretty excited to get a detailed picture of what the climb is like, but it was still four years until I found the time and partners to head in and check it out for myself. Joining me were some of the usual suspects- Sepultura, Trent, and Sparverious. It is a fairly long hike in to the base of the mountain (~12 miles?) past Waptus Lake, so I convinced the gang on a leisurely 2.5 day affair. We did not get off to an auspicious start, however. We (I) plowed through a trail junction just out of the parking lot, and ended up on Polallie ridge trail instead of one along the Waptus River. D’oh! Some cross country travel and a drop of 1000’ had us back on the right trail heading to Waptus Lake. Sorry guys. Waptus Lake is a popular spot, and rightly so. On a clear and still day, Summit Chief and Bears Breast are reflected beautifully in the lake, and it is a glorious destination in its own right for the valley pounding set. At the east end of the lake we wove our way through the tents and stood on the shore and took stock of the route we had hiked so far for. It is quite a sight! I’m not sure if there are many (any?) other mountains around that have a 3000 vf slab of solid rock. The SE mega slab of Bears Breast is about a third higher than Squire Creek wall, for example. Head on, It looked pretty steep for soloing (to a hack like me), but I reminded myself that things usually look steeper and harder than they really are. After a short break, we left the masses behind and walked around the Lake to the junction with the PCT and, shortly thereafter, camp next to the bridge over the Waptus River. I had forgotten how popular the PCT is, and there were a couple other parties at our camp. This wasn’t a bad thing considering that one of the hikers offered to share her excellent fire pit and benches. We helped to gather wood, and a shared a bit of our treasured Hunter. The hiker (a nurse) had some entertaining/disgusting stories that revolved around obese patients and unfortunate tattoos (Wet, Wet, Juicy, Juicy, Hit it Hard??!!). Needless to say, we were outgunned in the story department. We were moving at first light the next day, traveling cross country from camp trying to find the old trail that is reported to go up Shovel Creek to Shovel Lake. We found a trail not far from camp, but thought that it was the old Cascade Crest trail and didn’t stay on it. Mistake! When you find the trail, stay on it, it will take you all the way up to the slab. We eventually rejoined the trail and were soon at the slab, maybe an hour or less from camp? From below the slab is incredibly foreshortened, but still a little steeper than I was expecting. Changing into rock shoes (except sparverious who did it all in approach shoes), we followed one of Leland’s routes (I think?) by starting on a rib on the lower left side of the slab. The sandstone is grippy and well featured, so scrambling went smoothly. Sparverious was in the lead and picked a nice path up and right following natural weaknesses in the slab. Occasional overlaps and blank bits provided bits of trickier climbing, but nothing was ever sustained and no moves felt harder than 5.4-5. But it just kept going and going! Never severe, but always good quality with very little looseness, it was a more fun scramble than I was expecting. Since there isn’t much in the way of ledges, you tend to just keep moving. Climbing unroped we made progress rapidly, but it still took us about two hours to top out on the shoulder. Certainly a lot longer than it looks from below. As you are climbing up the slab you want to aim for the highest right side of it, where it abuts the near vertical cliff descending from the summit. This is where you will find a short gully that descends to another, longer, gulley that will take you up and left towards the North col and the Beckey rte. At the top of the second gully head left on a Class 2 shelf up and left to the actual col, passing underneath the start of the Beckey route. You can leave most of your gear at the col and head up. We followed the beta in this TR from NWhikers and it worked out perfectly, but be mindful of loose rock. A belay ledge collapsed from underneath Trent and Sepultura, raining the lower part of the route with blocks. Thankfully nobody was hurt, but if it would have happened when we were above them, it would have been a completely different story. The collapse spooked us all, and we didn’t linger on the summit, returning to our packs via three single raps on fairly good stations (backed up a chock stone with a nut after Sepultura pulled a pin on rappel). From the notch we were intrigued by Leland’s description of a “fun adventure” descending to Shovel Lake and so off we went to the east and south, descending more clean slabs and snowfields to the treeline. Getting to the lake did involve some ‘schwacking, but it was never too severe, and I think about 2.5 hours after leaving the summit several of the team were taking a well-deserved dip. Below the lake you want to stay on the skiers left side of the outlet stream where you can initially find faint bits of tread, but mostly just rock hop back down to the base of the slab. A little bit below the slab you can find the better tread that will take you almost all the way back to the camp on the PCT (note, there is a great camp on this abandoned trail about halfway between the slab and the PCT, next to Shovel Creek). I think we rolled back into camp about 11 hours after leaving, and we were ready to relax rather than move camp closer to the car (which was the original plan). More sharing of the fire pit with PCT hikers (father/son from Wenatchee), the last of the Hunter, and brilliant stars made for a satisfying bookend to the trip. The hike out the next day was predictably long and somewhat painful, but we did see a bear near the trail that broke up the monotony. Around the fire that last night, we all agreed that many would find the climb a fun and engaging adventure. Sandstone is unique enough around the Cascades that all of us marveled at some of the strange colors, shapes and formations we passed by. Bears Breast only sees about a party a year on average, so you will likely have the mountain to yourself. It is certainly within the reach of the average climber and located in a part of the range most climbers don’t get to- check it out! Gear Notes: Helmets, 60m half rope, light rack to 2", river shoes for crossing Waptus river where bridge is out on trail. Some may want rock shoes for the slab. Don't forget the Hunter! Approach Notes: Waptus River trail to old trail up Shovel Creek

Gene- It's OK. We (or at least I) don't hate kids. I just question the efficacy of the cell phone spam. I think reader boards over roadways is a better way to get the word out. You really only pay attention when it could matter (i.e. when you are out and about driving or walking), the rest of the time I ignore them.

I'm with you on this. Seems like something you should be able to opt out of/silence. Petty, I know.

I think if commercial outfits are abiding by the typical wilderness regs (party size, mode of transportation, etc.) then they shouldn't need a special permit. Basically I don't see how a human powered, commercial group in the wilderness is any different from a group of unruly climbers hooting and hollering their way up a route, scaring the wildlife, and drinking whiskey. Not that any of us have been known to do that. However, if said commercial groups are using roads for a car commercial on federal land, closing it to traffic, etc. then I would agree with you. I think the USFS has heard loud and clear that they need to narrow and clarify the rule. They overreached, and are getting beat back appropriately.