Ted S

Update from today (4/16): Snow still extends from the edge of the lot all the way up the mountain. The first couple feet are pretty melted down but there's still enough to cover sign posts 2/3rds up through the forest though seems like we're starting to see some vegetation make its way near the surface. Higher on the mountain, snow is either melting down or gullies are just filling up and some of the tricky spots for find a line up seem to be more straight forward. Lots of wet / loose activity around this weekend though everything I saw seemed small. Couple cornices on adjacent slopes have fallen or are on their way.

Update from yesterday's climb (3/31): Snow levels seem to be rising though there is still plenty of it around with a solid path from the parking lot and up. Higher parts of the mountain have picked a few more inches which, combined with the recent bursts of sun, has helped make for a more straight forward summit. Most everyone continues to top out switchbacking across the swift. Things get real soft by mid day leading to some nasty postholing on the more exposed ridges so snowshoes are a must if you're not skiing out.

Knowing snow levels would be extremely helpful so to start, here's an update from a 3/19 ascent. Per the climbing report (now stating 5' base at the lot), there's snow for the entirety of the route, no issues riding right on out. No major obstacles that I could see below the 4,800' marker either and mostly snow above with just one real stretch of rock on the climb up to work through. Lots of cornices, snow fractures and debris from recent slides around however. The upper route was pretty icy even in the mid morning sun though it softened up completely by about 2. Few people went for the summit and most that did took some variation across the Swift rather than cutting over to Monitor Ridge though a few came down that way. Not sure how long the April paid permits have been required but it was that way last year (500 people / day from 4/1 - 5/15 with a Sno-park pass still required in April, Recreation Pass in May as well.)

Wow, that's a big push for a day, at least in my book. Very cool and thanks for the TR, may have to give it a multi-day try before the snow melts down to crowd levels.

Awesome report and super stoked to see conditions like that. Huge bummer on the ticket however, what a downer and for the worst reason (basically encourages you to "call in" a minor fall to avoid a ticket!) What are the implications of simply staying up for the night (even bringing a tent / gear and planning it out) during the limited road access season?

My first summit of Rainier was with RMI (www.rmiguides.com) and my leads (who also work Denali climbs) were beyond impressive plus being good people to spend time with... From other trips up that and nearby mountains, I get the feeling that's true pretty much across the board. The standard D.C. Rainier climb is a lot of hand holding but it seems like that's far less the case on Denali which is nice. Given the price tag, I'd suggest calling each company up, asking for a guide and just talking through it all with them to see whose approach most fits your style. And oh, it's worth noting that most guiding companies have some sort of Denali prep course they require for climbers though I'm sure the right resume can escape it. Still, it's a good chance to scout out a guide or two that you can then request / book with for your actual climb.

Killer shots and to have that to yourself, so jealous! Planning a climb this weekend as the snow continues to settle... hopefully the storms stay at bay.

Planning a trip out this weekend if you're still in town. Sure things will be busy the next few days too if you head to the climbing hut @ timberline lodge and hunt for partners there.

Wandered up a bit past Palmer today and it was definitely icy under the latest powder. Saw a few permits in for the climb but most everyone I ran into bailed with the intense winds though I did spot a pair of climbers around Crater Rock @ 1pm so they may have some upper slope beta just in time for the next storm to change it all.

Awesome report detail and love that sunrise shot (along with the others of course).

I was up South Side last weekend as well with an overnighter at Lunch Counter. While the snow was still (relatively) firm for my 4am summit push, it was baselayer warm and plenty of areas were melting away fast. Past the initial snow line there's a couple exposed rocky sections up until around 8,000' though coming down it did look possible to stay on snow past them with a little route planning off the main path.

Never would have guessed that though it makes total sense from the environments I've shot in. And for the original post, this is an amazing TR that truly has me thinking about some of those long term goals and realities. Thank you for sharing, even if I'm 6 months late to reply!

Sounds like a really bad break. I read a similar comment (maybe it was yours on another site?) elsewhere before a trip this fall and while I was super cautious in what I picked, I did just fine with a 3 night -- and meal -- stay.

Sent you a PM to chat further.

Hey all - Fairly new to the PNW and I've hit that point where I should probably not do the things I want to do solo, so... here I am looking for others for a winter climb of St Helens. If anyone is interested shoot me a PM. I don't have specific dates set though the gear is on the shelf and I'm gearing to go. - Ted