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jojoclimber

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About jojoclimber

  • Birthday 11/26/2017

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  1. @genepires you have to leave them in 20-22 hours a day, so leaving them out a day or two here and there could make your treatment longer. No they are not a choking hazard--you have to pry them off your teeth. I frequently do 3-day trips and the occasional longer trips, plus after-work sessions at the exits here and there. @Bronco agree, they are a pita. Shot blox would be good to try. My issue is trying to get protein too. I've been trying drinkable yogurt for all-day cragging, but I don't want to be dragging that up a multi pitch climb. I figure with p'nut butter and honey packets my teeth won't rot out even if can't actually floss, brush until end of the day ;). @Rad umm, I know how to handle my nutrition when I'm climbing. You can't really be chewing on nuts and other hard stuff with the retainers in, hence my question for workarounds. @JasonG lol, Beckey was too busy doing first ascents to care about his teeth.
  2. So I just started with invisalign and as those who have gone through it (or still are) know, you need to keep them in for a recommended 22 hrs/day. I've found random blog posts on how to manage them when you're out backpacking. What I'm trying to figure out is how to manage a full-day multipitch climb, or a glacier climb, or any other activity when you need to eat on-the-go or quickly down a couple bites, especially if one or both hands are needed for rope management, etc. The only work around I can come up with is to just leave the trays in and eat very soft foods (like soft cheese or energy gels or shot blox) that won't crack the trays as you (carefully) chew. On long, strenuous days I need to have some protein and fat--just having sugary energy gels doesn't provide enough long-term fuel. Those small peanut butter or almond butter packets that also have honey or maple syrup (Justin's is one brand) could work. The drawback is that you then have food/sugar residue between the tray and teeth all day until you get a chance to brush and clean. But maybe that's only an issue if you do that for several days in a row or your teeth are more prone to accumulating plaque. Anyone have good tips? I suspect that they wouldn't exactly be orthodontist-approved, but in this case I think it's a matter of trade-offs.
  3. Maybe same owner as Patagonia jacket? Found at Farside late afternoon 10/29. It was sitting on a rock just before the turnoff to Gritscone. Tenaya Men's 9.5 (see pic), tongue says "SXR Dynamics". DM to arrange pickup.
  4. Men's half-zip (looks like a Nano Puff) found at Headlight Point on Sunday 10/29. DM with size and color to verify it's yours.
  5. They do teach the extended belay with autoblock, but I don't know if this is done consistently across all rock courses or courses with a rock component. Seems like everyone puts knots in the rope ends too; however, I've been on a couple climbs where there was concern that the knotted rope ends would get irretrievably stuck. Saddle bag method would solve that although it does take more time. Alpine environments are more complex, and if there's an issue with time, limited daylight, incoming weather or other factors, who's to say that they would've done anything differently. It's heartbreaking to lose someone in the climbing community. We go into the mountains because it makes us feel alive and we get to be challenged mentally and physically. Plus we get to be in beautiful places and spend time with good people. We go knowing that there is some risk.
  6. These will be my first ice tools, so I'll consider even semi-beaters that still have some good life in them.
  7. This question must come up all the time, but I can't seem to find much info. I found one article that guestimated around 500K active climbers in the US. The Outdoor Foundation Outdoor Recreation Report for 2014 says that in 4.7MM people participated in sport/indoor/bouldering in 2013. A participant is anyone who has done the activity at least once. The report says ~2.1MM did trad/ice/mountaineering in past years (has 6MM for 2013 but this has got to be wrong). It would be interesting to know the specific breakout too, i.e. ice, rock, etc.
  8. Found it at Burger and Fries on Saturday 7/26. Did one of your party have a Wayne State t-shirt?? If you think it's yours, PM me with description and how you've marked it.
  9. Too funny! I would seriously consider bailing right then and there if someone wanted to rope up for the approach. Is it possible to even place 11 pieces on that 2nd pitch??
  10. Vertebrae is the 5.10b crack to the right of Catapult, off of Stoners Ledge (Lower Castle Rock, Leavenworth). Just under the roof above the hand crack section there is a very large rock (about 2 ft wide x 1 ft high). I almost pulled it off and it's now just perched there. I tried to push it back but it's too heavy. If this thing goes, it will be an utter disaster for the lead climber, belayer, and anyone else climbing or belaying on or near The Fault. Fortunately, it's easy climbing at that point and you can easily go to the left to avoid it.
  11. I was with friends near by the accident but didn't see what happened. It seemed like emergency rescue did come fairly quickly - there was a ground team and a helicopter that picked him up. I hope he's ok and back to climbing soon.
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