manninjo

Do you guys have the first photo without the overlay line draw in?

Sounds like @Eric Gilbertson is doing a slideshow on his winter bulger project and Mox winter ascent at the Seattle Mountaineers next week. Should be a great talk, and there's free beer! https://www.mountaineers.org/locations-lodges/seattle-program-center/events/beta-and-brews-winter-fa-of-hard-mox-with-eric-gilbertson

Awesome, nice work!

@Alisse sampling Snoqualmie's version of "cold smoke"

Mt. Washington / Amazonia ice came in the last few days. Last time I climbed these was December 2016. Today and tomorrow probably the last days they are in. CYA on the Iron Horse did not come in that fat this cycle. Mt. Washington above the parking lot lower flow Mt. Washington above the parking lot upper flows - didn't really form completely, very wet Amazonia ice main flow Scottish gulley thing left of main flow

Incredible! What a discovery, and what an adventure. True "follow your nose" exploration, well off the beaten track. Amazing what you were able to get done in such a short window. Thanks for posting here.

Way to get it done, killer line! Let's see those photos of the munge on the lower ridge. If someone was going to do the access ramp variation to upper SE ridge of Seahpo and not continue the traverse, what's the best way down?

Looks like some engaging climbing, way to get it done! Baller indeed.

Its a neat range, lots to climb. Rock quality leaves much to be desired. For most folks, anything in the northern pickets will be a 2 day approach, 2 day deproach using any of the ways in. Allow 4 days to get in and out of high camp. There's not really any bushwhacking to get into either side of the range with the standard approaches. If I were doing something in the southern pickets, I'd search trip reports here, then supplement with Beckey guide and/or Nelson select guides.

What a trip, nice work!

Potentially interested if it is the right BSL for me. Sent you a pm.

@bedellympianConsider going for the second (?) ascent of any these routes in the Cascades? Access seems like a pain for most of these (especially without a sled), and obviously conditions are king, but the time of year you're looking at seems about right. NW Face of Chiwawa (Intravenous): Summit Chief North Face: Any of the lines on Buck Mountain North Face, e.g.:

Is this at Temperate Habits or District Brewing @JasonG? I think District has an upstairs, not sure about TH. District would get my vote if the venue not finalized yet.

If the Pub Club is in Skagit or Bellingham, I'd definitely be there.

@bedellympian awesome, have any photos of the zone?

Put in a snowshoe track to access this buttress at the head of seymour creek under north face of north twin sister, this zone is pretty legit. Ice was better than average for washington. Approach took longer than expected and we only did a couple lines on the lower tier at wi3 and wi4. Whole thing probably goes at wi4, maybe 70m tall? Somebody should get out there while they don't have to break fresh trail! 2.5-3 hrs with a trail in place from the gate closure. 4-5 hrs if breaking trail. Looked like decent snow camping next to the creek under the crag.

Bad cell phone picture from far away, haven't heard of these flows on the n aspect of north twin sister, up the seymour creek drainage. Looks like a bushwhack or tricky descending detour from the standard n face ski route.

Looks excellent, thanks for sharing! How's the lake fishing out there?

Looks like a fun way to the top, thanks for putting this out there!

Very cool!

Right on, looks like a worthwhile objective! How was the cross-country travel from the Methow up to the base of the face?

Killer season in the Pickets, 3 new routes and a 2nd ascent to boot? This line looked a little improbable, way to piece it together!

Awesome line, congrats!

Few more photos: On Phantom arm, under west ridge (route looks very good), looking over to Haunted Wall; lower part of Spectre's south ridge partially visible above Pickell pass. Approaching the ridge Sam leading delicate 5.9 PG-13/R up bulging flakes on pitch 3 Spot the climber Summit!

Awesome climbing again with you Sam after so many years, this climb went about as smoothly as I could have hoped! Great trip report on your blog, I recommend giving it a read. A few thoughts about the climb: Pleasant (and warm) temps made for light bivy gear and few layers needed Snow travel conditions and coverage were outstanding, mostly boot-sole to shoelace deep made for easy kicksteps and cramponing pretty much the whole time, never too firm or post-holely, with rubble, heather, and crevasses well covered We brought food for only 4 days/4 nights, and with meltwater never really carried more than ½ a liter of water at any given time (except on route) Certain sections of choss on the ridge required delicate climbing, alternating with heavy-handedness; we trundled a ton of stone, especially on the ridge crest Sam is an exceptionally strong and efficient partner who set much of the boot pack, led most of the pitches, and graciously humored me with belaying the Impasse both ways. We packed a lot into 4 days, with back-to-back 15-16 hour days including the full day climb and descent, followed by a marathon exit hike the final day all the way from the 7k ft moraine bivy south of Challenger to the car, leaving a little before 10am and making the trailhead around 2am. It was so hot the afternoon of our hike out, despite drinking 7-8+ liters of water and eating lots of salty snacks, by 10pm, what little urine I could pee was the color of motor oil. It was a little unsettling, to say the least. Fortunately, a couple days later and I’m no worse for the wear Here is a John Scurlock photo (used with permission) of the line, dotted sections were below the crest on the east. We did two rappels on route to get off or around gendarmes.