steveheikkila

Super deluxe! Nice work.

You forgot the bit about travelling in crevasse terrain unroped (i.e.,without a partner). I have a friend who almost punched through a gaping crevasse at the bottom of the Reid. Not the best route to solo. Glad you made it through safely.

Probably headed here Monday morning. Thanks for the beta!

Nice TR! Thanks for the beta. Considering this for this weekend.

Well done!

Awesome.

Just got back yesterday (Bozeman Ice Fest). The ice is pretty thin--much more so than the Thanksgiving era photos above. There was a heatwave last week and the week before with temps in the 50s, so Hyalite lost a lot of ice.

Katie!!!!!!!!

Nice beta shot. Thanks!

Sweet!

Thanks Karl! It's a super fun route.

Trip: Mt. Jefferson - Jeff Park Glacier Date: 7/21/2012 Trip Report: We headed out of camp at 6700 feet at 1:00am and were able to cross the lower bergschrund, still in the dark, a bit left of the Mohler Tooth (lots of rockfall evidence in the area, but because it was still dark and cold there wasn't any rock falling). The upper begschrund is close to being beat. We got beta from a party who climbed the route the previous weekend and they managed to stand on a fairly level snow bridge around mid-glacier, and climb a 30 foot moderate snow all. When we got there this bridge was looking pretty 'delicate'. My buddy Derek managed to find a path right up against the Mohler Rock that was still in tact. I don't know how much longer it'll last. It appears that there is still a snow bridge right up against Smith Rock as well. There's no snow or ice on the knife edge ridge, so that part was pretty straight forward. There is still enough snow on the north ridge to allow a traverse around (rather than over) the first big bergschrund, protecting with pickets, but not a lot of snow on the summit block, so climbing the summit block is easy. It was a superfun, long day. We descended off of the East Face right at the higher gendarme, doing multiple raps down to the Whitewater. I don't recommend this, not only because it's a chossy, rockfall nightmare, but it's pretty slow going. It would have been faster to walk down to Red Saddle and around to the Whitewater, despite all the extra distance. Gear Notes: 4 pickets. Small rack (2 camalot .75s, 2 .5s, and a set of nuts). Half ropes. Second tool. Two ice screws (which we actually used).

Wow! Awesome photos Steph (and John).

Thanks for the report! Climbing this next weekend.

Sweet pictures guys! Looks like you had great conditions.