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pioneerian

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About pioneerian

  • Rank
    n00b
  • Birthday 09/02/83

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  • Occupation
    Park Ranger
  • Location
    Estacada
  1. [TR] Mount Baker North Ridge - 5/7/2016

    Thanks Josh! That will save at least two hours next time. However, it will also save two beers for which I am totally against...
  2. [TR] Mount Baker North Ridge - 5/7/2016

    Did you type it in Word and copy and paste into the link? This happened to me a few days ago. Once I retyped everything without copying from Word it worked. If that doesn't do it than the only conclusion can be someone on the website has been watching too much porn...
  3. [TR] Mt Thielsen - SW Bowl 5/7/2016

    Oh blessed be the wonderful Pac NW hiking and climbing community. Such admiration for a fellow's beer! Don't go chang'n
  4. After years of scampering up south side variations, I finally worked up the nerve to swear off the spring traffic jams and look to the other side of the mountain. Snuck out of work early and my buddy Dylan and I headed for the mountain. We staged a car at Timberline and were off to Tilly Jane. We made it to the trailhead around 7PM. With the usual pre-climb anticipation, signs of sleep didn't look to be on the menu, so we figured an evening approach would be a fine way to round out the day. We appreciated the sight of a mottled lenticular on the way up and hoped the evening would push it out by morning. Got to the A-frame around 9PM. Fortunately for us, the cabin was reserved by a solo skier from SEATAC who invited us in. THANKS ALEX! After chatting around the fire for a bit, we turned in to grab a wishful few hours of sleep. Got up at 2:30 and thought, OH SH#@!, it's late and the temp didn't drop. Hovering somewhere in the low 40s, it was time to get a move on if we wanted any shot at getting off the sun struck slope before it started to sluff. An absolute gorgeous night with no wind - provided one of the stillest nights I've experienced. Made it above timberline to see that frickin' lenticular still hanging on. We agreed you can't take the good without the bad so despite the probability of 'no vis' and a good shot of wind, it would at least shield the sun a bit. Passed the stone shelter and made it to tie-in-tock around sunrise. We hit the cloud in another 500' and sure thing, we were treated to a healthy dose of wind and cold. With a quick wardrobe change, it was onward and upward. The gusts were manageable and it was kind of nice not having the north face exposure as a distraction. The snow pack was solid and climbing easy despite the warm conditions so we kept the rope and pickets in our packs and decided to solo. We reached the chimeney as the sky opened up. Within minutes the sun was beating down on us. At 10500', the slope was stable but we knew that wouldn't last long. One last hard quick push and after a few exchanges of kicking in steps, we topped out just after 8AM. The cornice was small (2') and soft, so easy to punch through. Snapped a few glamor shots and descended through the gates.
  5. Newbie Looking For Partner

    I'm just outside of PDX and still have some open slots on my schedule. Sounds like a similar skillset and I'm definitely not a guide so hit me up if you'll help pack a role and have any climbs is mind! Going up Hood's sunshine on May 6th a need 1 or 2 more.
  6. Great pics. I assume you didn't use your screws?
  7. [TR] Mt. Hood - Leuthold Couloir 4/16/2016

    Great photos bud! Mind asking what lens (and setting) you used?
  8. nooob

    welcome gixxer! south side is pretty straight forward as I'm sure you've heard. I generally tell people if you want a little extra security on the upper slope, leave the rope and bring another axe/2nd tool. I think this gives you better options between routes (chute, pearly gates, mazama) and can go for whatever is least crowded. Bronco's comments are as what I've experienced for skiing. Good luck!
  9. Grivel G12's

    I used the hybrid G12s with Evos for years and felt pretty good about the system. However, I'd opt for full-bail if I were to do it again since there a little easier.
  10. Mont Blanc compatibility with G12s?

    I tried it in the longest position with the long bars which gave me about 1/4" gap from the back tabs but still a no go... Cursid big feet!
  11. Mont Blanc compatibility with G12s?

    I tried moving the bail and that makes it worse and the bar is maxed out with the size of boots. Appreciate the info on the other crampon options!
  12. I've been having an issue with my beloved G12 new-matic crampons locking to a new pair of Scarpa Mont Blanc boots. Is anyone familiar with this? The G12s have seen a good deal of use but I don't think it's a wear issue. The boots are size 48 which I know is the upper limit but they locked well to my old La Sportivas. The MBs have a rounded heal so the lever doesn't seem to go forward enough to actually "lock". If a new crampon is needed, I've been looking at the G22s, Cassin C14s, Cyborgs, or Sarken if you've had experience with any, please share. Thanks!
  13. [TR] HOOD - North Face - RIght Gull 2/25/2016

    Great pics! Thanks for the report
  14. [TR] Mt. Hood - Reid Headwall 1/25/2016

    Nice post and good work
  15. Newbie wanting to be ready for summer

    In a lot of ways, experience = comfort in climbing and vise versa, meaning you're on the right track just getting out there. I started the same way and even if you're going up Helens in the winter that's generally more advanced than nearly everyone taking a basic climb class/school. My tactic (right or wrong) was just use good judgement and climb until I didn't feel comfortable going for the next pitch. And if you want to meet fellow climbers just climb the south side of Hood and half of them will be there! If not, I live an hour away, shoot me a PM if you're heading up.
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