YocumRidge

You have probably seen this already (http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/stuart#approachexit), but getting to the Sherpa pass from the false summit of Stuie does not require climbing and downclimbing Sherpa, but rather traversing over some class 3 ledges on the south side of Sherpa. As DPS mentioned, we never found those ledges.... However, this cl. 3 south traversing option would not be legit if you are set to cover all the peaks of the Stuart traverse.

Good thing we did not kill each other by broken off holds. Oregonian towers is an acquired taste, do it once and never again. A note on the approach: do not follow the approach description saying "locate the tower and just hike up there" - or else you might never come back. The tower is surrounded by vertical cliffs overgrown with devils club. There is however a wooden plank arrow just off the Y-intersection where you park the car. Follow up hill in that direction until you hit the rock (loose cl. 4-5), take hard right and traverse over up to the base of the climb through the mix of rotten logs and loose scree where having an axe would be a good idea.

Has anyone been up there recently and know whether the water source near Bench camp (10 min hike north) is still there or is there any snow left around the camp? TIA Anastasia

Nice! Please, report back.

Anyone been to Banks Lake? Been cold there for a while..

Thanks!

Thanks guys! Highly appreciated.

Nah, not interested in Infinite bliss, but need water on Slesse

Anyone who climbed NEB via Crossover descent know what is the current situation with water sources or remaining snow? Worth bringing a stove?

Nice work. What is water situation on the approach and the route?

I was humbled, Dan. It was hard

NR of Stuie from west face of CBR this weekend 07/10/2017:

Looking for a motivated partner to climb NE buttress (first choice, condition-dependent) or the standard Fury glacier. Planning to approach via Axes creek and Luna cirque. Some time in July, I am flexible on timing. Ideally, I'd like to do a less committing objective first, alpine rock, etc. Anastasia

Juan, I am as liberal as they are bred. Ask Dan Smith. How about Rainier in a day on Monday? That should condition you all right. Anastasia

Czech republic. http://www.rockandice.com/weekend-whipper-video/weekend-whipper-can-you-really-stop-a-crevasse-fall

A word AUDACITY comes to mind. Not many people have it but Laurel was just that. Best of the best and gone so freaking soon. A lot of inspiring memories with this girl. So devastating. RIP Laurel. Laurel on "Landing a Monster", Trout Creek, OR: [video:vimeo]176700739 Laurel on "Goldrush", Silverton, CO. Laurel on the topout of Gibraltar Wall, Canal Flats, BC: Laurel at the sketchy icetub in Lilooett, BC:

Sorry. I know. I am recovering from a heart attack though .

Trip: HOOD - North Face - Right Gull Date: 2/25/2016 Trip Report: North Face on Hoodie. It is where wolfs are real and women become men. A legit alpine route that never disappoints. Actually, it disappoints a lot. It might be fun and easy in some conditions, and hard and scary in others. My success rate on this route in winter is not great, thanks to high winds, and miserably long and sleep-deprived approach that keeps kicking my ass over and over again. Nothing new this time. The Cloud Cap road is conveniently closed and the splitboard/slow shoes approach from the Tilly Jane TH @ 3800' to the face took 7 hrs from the car. My slowest record of all. We run into a lot of deep isothermic snow below the T-line and the spindrifted powder on the Eliot and were breaking trail for eternity it seemed. Checking in at the Tilly Jane A-frame around 2 AM: Cameron on the upper Eliot gl.: Cascades panorama at sunrise: North Face from the upper Eliot gl.: Cameron at the base of the shrund: I did not bother to look for the easier options either on the right or left side cuz I am lazy, so I crossed the shrund in the center on some sketchy snowbridge: The funnel through the first ice step was producing morale-breaking micro-avalanches threatening to kill so we belayed that pitch with the usual belay on the left behind the prow. The splitboarders are stoked at the base of the first ice step: Cameron heading up the first ice step: The Sea of alpine ice higher in the gully that we simul-climbed below the second ice step: Myself heading up the second ice step. Phat. The stretch from the top of the second ice step to the summit was time-consuming: a lot of thin snice veneer over rock ready to come down at any moment. More simul-climbing to follow. The summit pyramid: The summit cornice: Finally, we crawled on to the summit: The descent down the south side was in the dark. Pearly Gates had recently spit out an ice avalanche so we went around over the hot rocks: Gear Notes: 8 screws, 1 Spectre, 2 pickets, 60 m rope Approach Notes: Tilly Jane TH, splitboard, slow shoes.

Got back to the homelands. WTF is with this Beacon closure? Ivan, I followed your suggestion and did Peach Cling out of desperation. In the rain, no less. Almost had a heart attack on the second pitch .

Does this mean you are going climbing soon?

I am still debating, Gene, what is my preference though: -30 ice or a lack thereof. Last year was already pretty pathetic in Alberta:

Myself and a partner will be in Moab October 23 - 30th and looking for carpool partners to get to Washer Woman (White Rim Road) within that time frame. Either someone with a 4WD truck (we will generously cover the gas and the effort involved) or someone who is willing to share the Jeep rental (1 or 2 days) in Moab. PM, text or call 503-901-3837 Thanks! Anastasia

So that I can say "hi" to you, Sobo.

Because of the Ivan's sleeping in the toilet?

FYI, Dan (DPS) and I did climb J-burg as a "first casual outing": http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1126748