medicsandy

Would love to hear advice on Eldorado. Haven't been on here in quite a while. I've done Adams a few times and Rainier once with a guide...didn't summit due to weather. Anyway, we're thinking of coming out to climb in August and Eldorado caught my eye. We've got just the basic experience being roped up but I'm still really leery of crevasses. Wasn't sure how much of an issue they are on Eldorado. Should we use a guide service? I hate the climbing up in a row of 6 type climbing, so shy away from guide services. But, I'm 54 and don't have a huge ego and I also appreciate staying safe! Appreciate any advise from anyone that's climbed it. Thanks!

HA! I'm still among the living!! Thinking about a climb later this summer. Bought a road bike last summer and fell in love with riding. Much easier on the joints!

DON'T eat at Whittakers! We did the night before our climb and all 4 of us got food poisoning. Spent 2 days of misery at Paradise lodge and totally missed our climb.

As said, just start posting on here for partners to hook up with. I too have been turned back on Rainier and know what you're talking about. I personally don't like climbing in a single file line on a minute to minute schedule in a group, knowing that they can't wait out weather. I DIDN'T think you were copping an attitude, I thought you were just being polite in saying that you'd rather not do the guide thing. P.S. I'm also in the flat land part of the country and spend lots of training time on those 600' hills! It sucks....but it works!

I agree on the sketchy June weather. Shoot for July if you can. Also, have you considered staying at Whittakers Bunkhouse in Ashford? I wouldn't go anywhere near a "cheap" motel by the airport, unless you want to drag bedbugs up the mountain with you. It's a nasty area for the most part. Get your stuff and head up to Ashford to stay before and after.

Before you practice with your beloved friends....may I suggest you take my ex-husband. somewhere very steep and scary. make him go first.

Have been away from here for awhile, but just read your posts. Another concern comes to mind here: you keep saying that you don't understand your roommates reasoning for this. Communication is a huge part of a good climbing partner. If he can't sit and explain his reasoning to you, or you don't feel like your questions are being answered, or feel he's not listening to you....then he's not the climbing partner you want. You need to be safe more then you need to climb with your roommate.

thanks for the report. will be out there in a week. question....is there any kind of marking where the summer/winter trails split?

Have you considered doing Adams instead of Hood??

Best of luck on your climbing adventures!

just sent you a message with some gear info!

Have been checking for daily news updates on the missing climbers on Rainier. Back here (Ohio) we heard about the big storm on Tuesday, that was just starting to hit all of you out there. From what I've been reading, the climbers and campers were all due back before that hit, on Sunday and Monday. We back here are wondering...did a sudden storm hit the mountain last weekend? was it forcasted to hit? would they have known about it when they took off on their climb? we cant seem to find anything talking about the weather for last weekend. Hoping and praying they are found safe and alive and also praying for the safety of the men and women that are searching for them. I can only begin to imagine how difficult that search would be.

Originally Posted By: akhalteke 1) Glacier experience, crevasse rescue, self rescue crevasse training, AMS prevention Glacial route finding, whiteout navigation, wilderness first aid, snow anchor placement, ice anchor placement, rope management skills, how to avoid high altitude ailments like corneal burns, self arrest techniques, escape the belay techniques, shall I go on? You answered: those are skills not experience. Really??? those are skills gained by experience you block head! 1. As an "old lady - new climber" I say you're ignorant. 2. As a Paramedic...I say GO FOR IT!! As we say in my business..ignorant people are job security. I will get paid big money to save your ass and use it to buy drinks for all of these guys who did their alpine start and made it back to the bar in time for happy hour!! hahahahahahahahaha!!!!

Wow...wish I would have seen this sooner. My husband and I had our first climb up Rainier in July. Here's my trip report for you. We live in Ohio with less then ideal training grounds. We worked our asses off to prepare for this climb. We signed on with IMG. Professional and friendly all the way! We made a HUGE mistake that cost us our climb. After our orientation meeting at IMG, we went to RMI (Whittaker's) Grill for a burger, before heading to Paradise for the night. While at the grill we were treated to the extremely egotistical snot Peter Whittaker. What a huge disappointment he is! We got the burgers and took off. By the time we hit our room at Paradise, we were fighting to get to the bathroom, sicker then hell from the burgers. We both spent the night on the bathroom floor, sicker then we've ever been. We got up early, packed up, and attempted to start our climb with IMG. By the time we made our first rest break, we were both off in different directions getting sick again. We were way too sick to continue and it was all we could do to get back down to Paradise. Here's the kicker: when our guide got the rest of our team to the summit, she ran into Peter Whittaker up there. She told him that members of her group had missed their climb because they had food poisoning from his grill. Mr. Ego Whittaker started laughing and said "I don't give a shit...I'm having fun!" Really??? That climb cost us a lot of money, training, and time. When we left the mountain, I stopped at the grill and talked with someone about it. I was told we would hear from someone within 3 days and that Whittakers take this serious. That was July 14th. I'm still waiting for my phone call. Soooooo.....do you really want to go with RMI????? If I ever get the pleasure of seeing Mr. Whittaker again, I promise you, I'll break his nose!

Just wanted to send a thanks out to everyone that patiently answered all of my questions and gave so much support. I leave tomorrow for Seattle and start my first Rainier summit attempt the following tuesday (12th). Here's to climbing safe and climbing strong!! See you on the mountain!! Sandy

Update on this post from back in March. I just heard on a Crystal Mountain blog that they just found the missing skier a few days ago. He WAS in a tree well. http://sports.espn.go.com/action/freeskiing/news/story?id=6669936

Remember the pemits. We were checked several times. They were really nice about it, but did want to see them. Also...if you do shoot for the first of July, check to make sure the road to the trailhead is open. Some years its not until mid month. Have a great trip!

If you have a weekend....pack up and go to Mt. Adams, south spur. beautiful mountain with awesome views and snow to practice on. really great glissading too!

Too bad you're not doing your study on lower extremities. I'm typing this with a huge ice pack on my knee! And the best part is I haven't climbed yet (July 12th). I'm destroying my knees just by training! If I screw up a shoulder....I'll let you know! Actually, from what I've heard....most climbing injuries tend to be lower extremities. It's hard on the knees.

Awesome!! Your pictures are amazing! Looks like a great time. Gaucho....it's just you!!

Gaucho.....I kinda think you might already be high.

ok...hoping everyone will weigh in on the best water proofing stuff for my climbing boots. I've got Lowa's and have never put anything on them. Have waded through pebble creek and quite a bit of other water with no problems at all. Getting ready for my Rainier climb and have been hearing that I should water proof before I go. Wax vs sprays???? Thanks!

too funny gyro! would love to see that video. were you screaming like a girl?? wonder if you're on you tube! ha! ok, now back to tree wells.....or awesomely stupid things we've all done.

KING 5 just put this out yesterday on the tree wells. http://www.king5.com/video/featured-videos/Dangers-of-tree-wells--118887944.html

awww....was keeping my fingers crossed that you could climb with us! there's always another day and another mountain. we'll climb together....i'm sure of it! p.s. i'll bring the charmin!!!