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jrex

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About jrex

  • Rank
    journeyman
  • Birthday 08/18/1979

Converted

  • Occupation
    Sales
  • Location
    Portland,OR
  1. for sale Paris Pulk Expedition Sleds

    Where are you located? Portland???
  2. It was my first time to the area and we were going to climb to Kates cut in but ended up hitch hiking and that took us to the true start of the Alpine.
  3. Trip: Wolf Rock - Barad Dur Date: 9/25/2016 Trip Report: Partner and I left Portland nice and early Saturday wondering if the heavy rains would foul up our weekend or if we would get lucky. We knew the route got hammered with weather and to buy some drying time we decided to throw the mountain bikes in the truck last minute and climb Sunday morning instead of Saturday. We drove to Oakridge and rode the complete Alpine Trail thinking a shuttle would give us a fun day with little energy expenditure. We were wrong. You shuttle to the bottom of the other side and climb the damn mountain before bombing down. Amazing ride with lots of climbing. We ate some pizza then 2 hours drive to WOLF. The drive in was dark and the roads were slick and muddy. The air was heavy with humidity. We went to sleep thinking the route would be wet and might not happen. From the short little pull out camping area off the road we walked up hill a short ways to find the approach trail. A few minutes later we arrived at what looked like the start. The rain had washed the rock nicely, no chalk or any indication on where the route went other then bolts. P1 and P2. No 2 bolts at start as described in other posts. We found they have been chopped and holes filled with epoxy. We tied P1 and P2 together in one nice pitch. Lichen covered rock but mostly solid and fun climbing. P3. fun easy P4. Fun and we did find good gear just under the roof before traversing, I think I got a bomber #2 or #3 BD. You can see my partners helmet down below if you look for it... me on top of P4. P5. The jugs around the corner of the crux are not what I would call jugs or they broke off...still 5.10 you just have to stay in the zone and keep moving. P6. was stellar and protected well. P7. We headed up trending left but mostly straight up and never found an anchor or pro that would have held. The rock is covered in moss and scary. Around 200 feet up I gained the ridge to find a new SS bolt that I belayed from. WORST ROCK ON THE ROUTE. P8. We followed the easy bolt line along the ridge up towards the towers staying on the ridge. Once at the new bolt line the climbing was supper cruiser and the rope was finally put away. Not sure what route this was. Signing the register. Last party to climb was a week prior. After passing the summit we continued along the ridge for a while. Once you pass some old bivy platforms you might see a small rock cairn. Pass this descending to the right of it....Follow the water groove. Props to the guys that put that beast up!!! Thanks for replacing some of the old bolts also, they did not inspire confidence, especially the old aluminum hangers!! Car to summit was about 6 hours for us... Gear Notes: 13 single length slings 2 doubles and a few revolver biners...No issues with rope drag....We carried way more cams then needed and placed a couple nuts. Carried 2 liters of water on a hot day and ran out at P7. Approach Notes: Easy
  4. My partner might not make it this weekend so I am looking for a partner to leave Saturday 4/16 mourning bivy and ski chutes on Sunday 4/17, ski/hike out. Access is still crap so this is could be a long trip. Who's with me? If my partner is good to go we ski as a group of 3.
  5. White out conditions!!! Glad you made it down..
  6. I am down for the 1st-3rd or if weather sucks 15th-17th
  7. Touring partner wanted

    We are looking to ski off the summit of Mt. Hood on New Years Day. Just the standard southside climb through the Pearly Gates..Leaving Portland around 3am if you want to go.....Josh 503-933-4534
  8. I was driving to an appointment for work when I saw this cliff. I stopped and bush whacked up the hill for 10-15 mins to the base. I could not find any evidence of humans around in the areas I hiked, just bear shit. Cliff is maybe a mile long and 80-100 feet tall. It is 90 mins from Portland on the Washington side of the Columbia River going towards the Coast. Anyone that likes getting FA's and developing I am happy to share beta...Here's the pics to give you a taste...
  9. Cold Springs access on Adams?

    Do you guys think the sw chutes are worth the trip this weekend?....Looks like 5-10 inches of snow over the next couple days...
  10. 20 year dream in the making

    Sounds like you are doing it in the right order. Get fit on the smaller hills and you will be ready for the big hills. When I first moved to Oregon I spent several weekends hiking up and down Elk and King mountain. I got to the point of planning hikes during snow and wind storms to get a feel for the elements. You will cruise the SS of Hood if you keep it up.
  11. Smith rock in January

    Winter is my favorite time to climb at Smith. Go get it!!!
  12. Final Climb of 2014. DA HOOD!!!

    I delayed the climb by a day for better conditions, leaving New Years Eve night to summit New Years Day...91 of you guys have looked at this so far and none of you want to climb and ski!!!! Guaranteed powder turns at 10,000 feet!!! What is wrong with you guys!!!
  13. What's up guys!!! Tuesday night into Wednesday morning (new years eve) looks like some sweet touring weather!!! I want to make a summit attempt and ski from the top conditions permitting. Let me know if you want to join me!! Lets get it!!! Leaving Portland at 1am back in Portland around 1pm...
  14. Lost: Camera on upper north ridge of Stuart

    Awesome News!!! Much appreciated
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