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About montypiton

  • Rank
    old hand
  • Birthday 11/03/52


  • Occupation
    schoolbus driver
  • Location
    central Washington
  1. 2017/18 Oregon Washington ice

    this is the first year since 1981 - year I moved to Leavenworth - that the Funnel (main line on Hubba Hubba hill), has not been climbable by mid-December. Walked in to Eightmile Lake yesterday, and noted a half-dozen or so climbable flows, including one that stair-stepped up for five pitches. I'm aware of no beta for any of these. Sorry, too lazy and digitally illiterate to provide photos. "if ya wanna know, ya hafta go" -Haireball
  2. Mount Borah North Face TR + Beta

    sent you a pm
  3. I always carry a handful of blades and z's, and regularly use them when ice gets too thin for screws. I also hammer bulldogs as blades in rock. I typically carry a first-generation Chouinard alpine hammer, bought in 1972,- use the pick mostly as a nut-tool - but I'm partial to the Forrest mjollnir with skye pick if I think I might actually have to use it to climb. I know, neither tool has been made for decades, but I believe BD still makes some version of that original alpine hammer. The Chouinard hammer is noticeably lighter than the Forrest, and I'm loath to go lighter than the Chouinard because my experience with lighter hammers has convinced me that its less work to carry the heavier hammer than hang on and bang at a peg half an hour to make the placement. -Haireball
  4. Stuart - Enchantment Fire Closure

    Jack Creek Fire spotted into Eightmile drainage on 9/3. Caroline Lakes, Eightmile Lake, and Eightmile trail were closed and evacuated. Stuart Lake & Trail, Colchuck Lake & trail, Mountaineer Creek, and Enchantments were closed and evacuated 9/4. we'll keep you updated. -Haireball
  5. Mt. Stuart north approach questions

    north-side approaches to Stuart are closed as of 9/4: Jack Creek fire has expanded into Eightmile drainage. Caroline Lakes and Eightmile lake were closed and evacuated 9/3, Stuart Lake, Colchuck, and Enchantments are being evacuated as of 9/4. Heavy smoke in Mountaineer Creek 9/1 - 9/3. -Haireball
  6. Climbing Over Labor Day?

    pm sent
  7. Partner Needed: 9/2-9/4 (Labor Day 2017)

    pm sent
  8. How many times do you resole your boots?

    I wore a pair of Galibier Super Guides until the uppers wore clean through back in the 70s-80s - resoled (and steel shanks replaced) three times. If the uppers are sound, and the fit is still good, I'd resole.
  9. Castle Rock New Route

    Canary - an ultra-classic on this "last traditional crag", has always, as far as i know, been a bolted route. even though it too can be protected without the bolts (yes, I have), I heard no complaints when it was retrobolted a few years back... context!?
  10. Labor Day weekend alpine climbing

    pm sent -Haireball
  11. learned pole self arrest doing avalanche control missions on pro ski patrols, and have used it regularly since the mid-eighties. protocol is one hand on pole at basket, pushing point into snow, other hand at pole grip. not quite as effective as an ice axe, but far superior to these silly "whippet" grip accessories... besides self-arrest this also works well for controlling glissade. becoming adept at pole self arrest eliminates the need for an ice axe on most summer snow venues, except glacier travel where crevasse-fall is a risk. Haireball
  12. Castle Rock New Route

    victor - if you've climbed it, I'll take your comments as meaningful feedback. if you haven't, well... -Haireball
  13. Castle Rock New Route

    that does sound like the finish crack of "Equinox". yeah, its still a bit dirty -- we got it as clean as we could, and figured traffic would do the rest. hope you liked it. -Haireball
  14. Fatality on Goat Wall...?

    in my not-so-humble opinion, there is no excuse for rappelling off the end of a rope. if you tie the ends to you, you cannot rappel off the end. stopper knots are the usual go to solution, but in formal tests, knots have been observed to capsize off the rope end, and with the figure-8 brake, knots have been observed to simply pass through the brake. tie the ends to yourself and live to climb another day. -Haireball