Tom_Sjolseth

Nice one. I'm surprised this doesn't get done more. That ski down from just below the summit of Torment was great. I'm sad we missed the couloir to Moraine Lake but that would have added another couple thousand vert and we were satisfied with what we had. I believe we skinned up through the step. It looked steeper than it was. The crux is transitioning from the couloir to the glacier, which I don't think we even had rope to protect. I remember it feeling a little spicy. EDIT: We actually did have rope, I just checked the photos. We didn't end up using it though.

I was just thinking about this thread (from 14 years ago) the other day. I bet the summit chaser feels like a real idiot now. RIP Marc Andre.

Excellent photos. The views from N Despair with the Pickets laid out in a panorama are some of the most scenic views I think you'll find in the range. I don't think there's an easy way up Crowder from Pickell Pass. The other way I've descended in the past was a better descent, but would be a more difficult climb. Another remarkable Roger Jung solo excursion. Thanks for the memories.

When I lived in Everett, I used to lap Teneriffe's Kamikaze Falls. It's about 3.4 miles and 3700' gain one way. Just after my 37th birthday I did it 4 times in a row for nearly 15k' gain and 28 miles in about 10.5 hours. Not sure where else you can get that kind of gain that quickly, and it's an interesting hike.

Perfectly captured in photos - thanks for bringing them to us.

Should you update your blog to reflect that it's open? As of July 3rd, it still has a closure alert and says the road is gated at milepost 21.

Great photos as usual. I have been wondering what impact the fire had on that route. Your trip looks quite different than the one I did up there in January of 2010. I missed the view that time, so I went back up a few years later. Amazing viewpoint.

Agree with Kurt. This year is a different beast with the late spring and lots of snow still lingering up there (it probably got quite a bit last night). I'd give it another few weeks or so, then it'll resemble May conditions in normal years.

We climbed the SE summit which is the highest point on Icy Peak. It was really straight forward, blocky climbing with ample holds.

More info here. My notes (and memory) say a short section of 4th class. I remember it feeling very straightforward and secure.

Wow, that is fat. I don't think I've ever seen the runnels that stacked.

The approach itself looks like a helluva practice run for J-Berg. That is a proud line. Way to pick another plum.

Lunger, I'd climb it again.

Blue collar is right. It feels like a different route every time I climb it. Is the summit register still up there?

Strong work yet again from the Jedi masters of craptastic and vertical choss. I remember looking down on that face thinking "yikes".