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About denalidevo

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  • Birthday 01/29/1971


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    Mountain Guide / Climbing Instructor
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  1. If you have one you'd like to part with, contact me at denalidevo@gmail.com.
  2. Trip: Joshua Tree National Park - 11 days in J-Tree Date: 3/9/2017 Trip Report: Escaped the endless wetness and made my first visit to JTNP. Climbed ten out of eleven days - nothing too hard but sent some great lines in the sun. Good times! Love granite. Climbs: Double Cross 5.7+ (1 p) Toe Jam 5.7 (1 p) White Lightning 5.7 (1 p) Sail Away 5.8- (1 p) Wild Wind 5.9 (1 p) The Flake 5.8 (1 p) Fisticuffs 5.10b (1 p) Tumbling Rainbow 5.9 (1 p) Strawberry Jam 5.9 (1 p) Skinny Dip 5.7 R (1 p) Colorado Crack 5.9 (1 p) Spiderman 5.10b (1 p) Gem 5.8 (1 p) Raven's Reach 5.10a (1 p) Touch and Go 5.9 (1 p) SW Corner Headstone Rock 5.6 (1 p) Cryptic 5.8 (1 p) Butterfingers Make Me Horny 5.8 (1 p) No Calculators Allowed 5.10a (1 p) Run For Your Life 5.10b R (1 p) Rock-a-Lot 5.7 (1 p) Double Dogleg 5.7 (1 p) Smithereens 5.8 (1 p) Lewd and Lascivious Conduct 5.10c R (1 p) Spitwad 5.9 (1 p) Continuum 5.8+ (1 p) Invisibility Lessons 5.9 (1 p) Dolphin 5.7 (1 p) Bird of Fire 5.10a (1 p) Rubicon 5.10c (1 p) Overseer 5.9 (1 p) Prepackaged 5.10a (1 p) The Importance of Being Ernest 5.10c/d R (1 p) Feltonian Physics 5.8 (1 p) Head Over Heals 5.10a (1 p) Too Secret to Find 5.10b (1 p) More photos: Joshua Tree March 2017 on Flickr. Gear Notes: Placed some big cams, and some small ones. Approach Notes: Long drive to CA from WA and back.
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  4. Trip: Chair Peak - NE Buttress Date: 2/24/2017 Trip Report: Climbed the NE Buttress of Chair with Stephen Williams Friday. A fine little alpine romp! There was very little exposed ice on the route since most of it was recently buried under two feet of very dry, unconsolidated powder, which made pickets completely useless and screws viable for just one section. Lots of snow on Chair today Approaching the NE Buttress On the first pitch, we bypassed the S-gulley via a direct line to the left via a thin, brittle veneer of ice-over-rock that was unprotectable until a tree belay. The second pitch was secure plunging through the deep (and steep) powder while driving crampon points into the underlying rain crust/ice layer, again unprotected until we fabricated a belay on a rock outcropping with a .5 Camalot and medium nut. Stephen then traversed left through the powder to the base of the upper water ice step and found some solid ice for a double screw belay. The ice step was good and solid; Stephen placed two more screws in blue ice before pulling the bulge and moving upwards into more of the deep powder over ice crust. His belay was a kicked-out body stance which he was unable to back up with a picket due to the funky conditions. I followed without incident. The fifth and final pitch was more wallowing in steep powder to the top of the ridge with a few slung trees. Two hours, ten minutes on route. After lunch on the summit, we down-climbed to the first rappel in the descent gully. Only did one rappel since we couldn't locate another rap station (probably buried) and the conditions were fine for down-climbing with crampons and a single tool. More wallowing ensued until we reunited with our snowshoes at the base of the slope. Stephen getting quality sticks in at the upper ice step Atop the NE Buttress Enjoying a beautiful winter day in the mountains Gear Notes: 60m rope, 4 screws, 3 pickets (unused), small to medium nuts, single cams from .3 to 1", 4 alpine draws, 5 double slings. Approach Notes: Lots of powder.
  5. A legendary, made in Montana, Dana pack. Size large frame, size medium belt. An adjustable back panel allows a custom fit through a large range of sizes. (I'm 5-7, 150lbs with a 30 in. waist - will easily fit folks even larger than I.) Great condition, no tears and zippers/buckles are all good. It's been unused and stored indoors for just too many years. Includes Dana's BeaverTail Shovit accessory, which allows easy carrying of a snowboard, shovel, etc. on the exterior. Dana Designs specifications: Capacity: 5,200 cu.in./85 liters Weight : 5 lb. 13 oz./2.6 kg Our Glacier is a lightweight workhorse. With loads of carrying capacity, the Glacier adapts to the needs of most extended excursions. The double back pocket and divided bottom create packing flexibility while maintaining a narrow profile. Our ArcLight frame is a lighter sibling of our ArcFlex frame, able to handle loads just shy of behemoth. The ArcLight active framing, load control straps and compression straps all work in unison to provide comfortable, controlled load carrying, leaving you light on your feet. $150 firm. If you're in the Seattle-Everett area, I'll accept cash and arrange delivery in person. If shipping and paying through PayPal, shipping costs (roughly $25) and PayPal fees ($8) are additional. **Please note, I will be unavailable between January 28 - February 4**
  6. This bag is in pristine (practically new) condition. It's only seen about 30 nights of use. No tears, stains or other blemishes. Zipper is as new. Features: 775 fill power down Zipper is a half-length design Weight: 3 lbs. Cotton storage bag and stuff sack included This is a very warm, high quality sleeping bag that I sadly just have no use for. I am asking $250 firm, not including shipping. (This bag retails for over $500 new.) PayPal or cash accepted.
  7. As mentioned, south and west of the summit. If climbing the north face routes, after the summit. If climbing via the walkup route/descent, then before.
  8. Olympus footwear?

    Strap on crampons will be fine.
  9. The basin just below (south and west) of Dragontail is a good bivy spot with running water. It's out of the zone and less than 20 minutes from the summit.
  10. Trip: Dragontail Peak / Mount Stuart - Backbone Ridge & Complete North Ridge w/ Gendarme Date: 7/30/2016 Trip Report: With a combined age of 108, JP and I climbed these two classic routes "old man style" - avoiding all that knee crushing bullshit the youngsters are inclined to do. This was JP's first ascent of Backbone and my first of the CNR - a nice trade that was. Dragontail: Backbone Ridge -Jul 30-31 Walking from Stuart Lake trailhead at 3:07am. At 6:15 we reached the snow crossing atop the moraine, which we donned aluminum 'pons for and dispatched easily. By 7am we had scrambled the ledges and were roping up for p1. JP sending OW crux Such great position! We simuled the 100m 4th-class section and by 10:40am we were at the base of the Fin where we took a nice lunch break. Began climbing the Fin around 11:30. Even though we climbed the left side of the Fin as described in our guidebooks, we still had some route finding issues and lost time. JP starting a wild traversing 5.9 pitch on the Fin Summit 4:30pm. Summit glory We bivied overnight below the summit, just outside the Enchantment Zone area - old man style. Woke up the next morning after a windy night. Didn't sleep too well. Beautiful sunrise though. Used 'pons and trekking poles to descend the snowfield to Aasgard Pass. Dragontail Obligatory goat shot Left bivy at 7:30am, at the trailhead at 12:38pm. We went in to town and bought a fresh made pie at Dan's Market and some ice cream. Then we headed to my secret recovery cabin and fed our faces. JP fills his pie hole Slept real well that night. Relaxed most of the following morning at the cabin, drinking coffee. That afternoon we ran into Leavenworth for some supplies. Visited Der Sportsman, Dan's Market, Safeway and the Mtn House. Spent money. Then we had lunch at the Munchen Haus. Of course I couldn't pass up a delicious pint of Dark Persuasion German Chocolate Cake Ale... JP hoggin' down a Helga's Giant Kelbassi Then we went back to the cabin for more R&R. Old man climber secret weapon: the recovery cabin Complete North Ridge of Mount Stuart - Aug 2-4 Left Stuart trailhead at 12:10pm. At 1:45 we turned left on the climbers trail and began following Mountaineers Creek. It was easy at times and challenging at others - lots of blow down and some boulder hopping. Pretty hike through the woods along a stream though. Log crossing Mountaineers Creek At 4pm we made camp in the basin below the final scree field approach. From below we saw the bivy boulder at the toe was already occupied. It was now cloudy, breezy and sprinkling off and on. Ominous clouds over Stuart We found some boulders that offered varying levels of shelter. One was quite overhung and suitable for cooking under. Looks rather cozy for a rock However when it began raining harder it began to drip in a way that made us wonder about it as a sleeping area. JP found a drier location and I managed to wiggle into a semi-upright position and stay dry. About 9pm the party who was camped under the bivy boulder at the toe of the ridge came tromping by in the dark - they were bailing. The next morning we awoke to sunshine. Bluebird skies on the CNR Left camp 6:20am. 7:15am we were at the toe of the CNR. At 7:55 we began climbing p1. By 9:45am we'd dispatched p3 and began simul-climbing. At 12:40pm we'd reached the upper ridge notch. Ice Cliff Glacier JP negotiates easy ground on the lower N. Ridge The upper N. Ridge from the notch After seemingly endless amounts of exhilarating simul-climbing, we arrived at the base of the Great Gendarme around 3pm. Stellar position on the upper N. Ridge The striking Crack-on-Slab pitch JP leading the 5.8 layback on the Great Gendarme JP finishing the 5.9 OW pitch Approaching the summit 5:35pm on top. Summit selfie We descended awhile, using the trekking poles and 'pons for a short bit on some steep snow above the Cascadian Couloir. Just above the Couloir we found a sweet bivy and settled in for the night. The next morning we awoke to another splitter day. Sunrise on Sherpa Peak We were traveling at 7:15am. Using Abegg's advice we descended the 3rd & 4th-class ridge past Sherpa Peak towards Sherpa Pass. It went without a hitch. Just stick close to the ridge and don't drop too far down to the south. JP descending the ridge Arrived at Sherpa Pass at 10:55am after 3 hrs, 40 min. Negotiated steep snow from the pass, then boulder-hopped to Mountaineers Creek. Regained the Stuart trail at 1:45pm; trailhead at 3:05. Another stop at the Munchen Haus came soon after. More Photos: Dragontail/Stuart Jul 30-Aug 4, 2016 photo set on Flickr Gear Notes: Brought an old #5 on Backbone, used it. Brought a #3 on CNR, used it. Approach Notes: The usual. Used 'pons and trekking poles on both routes, no axe.
  11. Trip: Hells Canyon / Wallowas / Elkhorn Mtns - Baker City Bash: a Week of Rock, Ice & Skiing Date: 1/25/2016 Trip Report: Drove to Baker City Monday January 25 from Lynnwood, arriving at 6pm at JP's house. When I arrived he was hanging out in his new shed with his buddy Mark and Pete Keane, Director of Timberline Mountain Guides. Mark & Pete had just come back from ice climbing at Pine Creek in the Elkhorn Mts. and JP had been skiing the slopes below them. It was a happening place! Eventually we all went out to dinner at Barley Browns where I enjoyed a pint of their excellent Breakfast Stout. Yum. Tuesday Morning JP and I headed to Hells Canyon, ID to hit some winter sun and limestone sport climbing. South Face of the Flatiron in glorious sun We climbed four adjacent routes from L-R: a forgettable 5.9 warmup, then a seriously fun 5.9 and two excellent 5.10c's. JP and I led all the routes. Super fun stuff. JP getting some o' that sweet limestone Thursday JP and I headed to the Southern Wallowas for some backcountry skiing. We drove snow machines to Norway Basin and skied 2,000 vertical feet of pure powder with nary a soul around. It was sweet but my legs were toast. My first snow machine ride! The yurt at Norway Basin JP skinning through the trees [video:youtube]sUenBW-69rI JP skis like a Nordic god Friday was my 45th birthday. I woke up stiff and sore. I drank coffee, helped JP shovel two inches of snow off the walk and made more coffee. Eventually I had a second breakfast, followed almost immediately by lunch. I went for a walk around 3pm down to Barley Brown's Tap House and enjoyed a Don Vanuchi Stout, then brought home a growler of their Starbottle Stout. Dinner was hamburgers, mashed potatoes and salad. I had a slice of homemade German Chocolate cake for dessert and some of the Starbottle. It was a good birthday. That evening JP and I packed our packs to go ice climbing in the Elkhorn Mountains. Saturday morning JP & I snowmobiled up the Rock Creek drainage - a very bumpy ride that took longer than expected due to the fact we were breaking trail through fresh powder. At 8am we left on the snowmobile. At 9am JP had to go ahead alone to pack down the trail. At 10am we were finally at the trailhead. Snowshoeing from the trailhead we initially went up the wrong creek, losing maybe 30 minutes before getting back on course. At 12:30pm we were headed up the final slope to the cliffs where we could see the ice formations. There's ice up there! Then came a very strenuous traverse across the slope through waist-deep powder. We ultimately had to break out the shovel to make headway to the base of a flow called Tobacco Gully. It was 1:45pm. JP busting ass through deep pow Tobacco Gully After kicking out a stance at the base of the cliff, we determined that it was too late to climb; we began our descent at 2:15 and were back at the trailhead by 3:15, and the car at 4:15. Oh well. JP at the TH saying: "that was a whole lotta' work for nuthin'!" I needed to rest after all that effort, so Sunday I went nordic skiing with Judy at Anthony Lakes. It was gorgeous. Gunsight Mountain, Elkhorn Mountains from the Anthony Lakes Nordic ski area Judy gliding away Monday we went back up Rock Creek to finish what we'd started Saturday. Another bumpy snowmobile ride put us at the trailhead at 9:30am, and we were on our way by 9:50. Snowshoeing back up our packed trail from Saturday was easy and we were at the base of Tobacco Gully at 11:05am. Ice climbing rule #1: don't take a selfie as a spindrift avalanche descends on you... JP began leading at 12pm. Tobacco Gully is usually easy WI3 - but not today! The left side was thin, rotten ice while the right was either bare rock or bulletproof blue ice that our crampons often bounced off of. I began following at 1:15pm. I managed to climb it clean, but it was quite the effort. Certainly wouldn't have felt comfortable leading it. After a double rope rappel, we were down at 3pm, descending by 3:30, at the trailhead at 4:10, and back to the car by 5pm. Good times, glad we went back and got it done! Gear Notes: Rock, ice and ski gear: I brought it all. Approach Notes: 6hr drive to Baker City for a week of outdoor fun? Hellz yeah!
  12. Newbie question about tying in with figure 8 loop

    Todd Skinner R.I.P.
  13. Trip: City of Rocks - Ten days at the City Date: 9/20/2015 Trip Report: Spent September 20 - October 1 at the City of Rocks. First time at the City for me - we had perfect weather and the climbing was superb! Lots of great trad and sport climbing on sweet granite - definitely won't be my only visit. Upon arrival: sunset on the City from campsite #42 Day One Climbed at Bath Rock. - Coffee & Cornflakes 5.10a sport - Private Idaho 5.9 trad - Colossus 5.10c sport. JP red pointed it - good work! Took a mid-day break, then went to Elephant Rock - it was shaded and empty. - The Pygmies Got Stoned 5.10a sport - Wheat Thin 5.7 trad - Rye Crisp 5.8 trad Judy on Wheat Thin Matt on Rye Crisp I tweaked a rib that evening when I wrecked while fooling around on a mountain bike in the parking lot. Day Two - Skyline 5.8 trad - Fall Line 10b sport Kira on Skyline Day Three Spent the late morning to early afternoon at the Bread Loaves, west side. - Carol's Crack 5.8 trad - Nipples and Clits 5.10a sport - short & crimpy with some exciting runout to the first clip - Abortions on Parade 5.10c mixed Moved to the Super Hits - Bloody Fingers side in the afternoon. - Twist and Crawl 5.8 mixed. It was 30 feet to the first bolt. Really sweet arĂȘte/slab climbing after that, then a splitter finger/hand crack to the top. I extended the anchor to make a 70m top rope work. - Bloody Fingers 5.10a trad. Sweet jambs through a low crux was followed by some face climbing, then more varied sized crack climbing followed - a 110 foot route! Best crack climb of the trip. Matt on Bloody Fingers Day Four Went to Bath Rock. - Immortal Porpoises 5.8 trad. What an adventure! Obviously not a high traffic route, it dealt me a lead full of thoughtful route-finding and creative gear placements, including slinging a huge chicken head as my penultimate piece of pro. So fun! - Rollercoaster 5.8 sport - Colossus 5.10c sport (red pointed it) Tony on Immortal Porpoises Red pointing Colossus After lunch we hiked around to the west side of PLR. - Funky Bolt 5.9 R trad, a superb route: a flared crack with tricky gear, then wild runout stemming over a roof, then more crack and finally easy unprotected face climbing to a belay on the biggest chicken head I'd ever seen. JP & Judy on Skyline, Morning Glory Spire from my stance on Funky Bolt Day Five West side of Parking Lot Rock in the morning. - Delay of Game 5.8 sport - Batwings 5.8+ trad Both were superb routes. They required two ropes to rappel, so I trailed a second and we simul-rappelled. Worked out nice. - Thin Slice 5.10a trad. Found it more challenging than Bloody Fingers, but not as satisfying. More vertical certainly, but less actual crack climbing I think. Tony leading Delay of Game Day Six I rested - my rib was hurting too much to climb. Got some great shots of my friends climbing at Bath Rock though. Betsy leading Private Idaho Mirasol red pointing Colossus Went into Almo and hit the hot springs, then pizza & beer at Rock City after. Durfee Hot Springs is da bomb Day Seven - Lost Arrow 5.7 R trad. Another CoR classic, I led both pitches with a single rack. Lost Arrow Spire Summit selfie: Tony, JP, Judy and me Hanging rappel from Lost Arrow - fun! After Lost Arrow we moseyed over to Stripe Rock. - Dike of Gastonia 5.7 R - a three pitch climb on a quartz dike. It went fast since it only took two pieces of pro: a #2 & #3 Camelot on the first pitch. Other than that it was runout, juggy climbing on the occasional slung chicken head to the top. Super cool. Tony on Dikes of Gastonia Pitch two anchor on Dikes of Gastonia Day Eight Bumblie Rock. - New York is not the City 5.9+ sport - Mystery Bolter 5.9 sport Kira leading New York is not the City Moved to the Elephant Rock area in the late afternoon. - Columbian Crack 5.7 trad Day Nine & Ten This morning my rib hurt the worst it had all week - didn't climb for the remainder of the trip. Watched everyone else climb: - Animal Cracker 5.10a trad - Thin Slice 5.10a trad - Tow Away Zone 5.10- trad - Just Another Pretty Face 10c - Batwings 5.8+ trad - Delay of Game 5.8 sport - Suburban Sprawl 10a sport JP starting up Animal Cracker JP pulling the crux on Animal Cracker JP leading Thin Slice The evening on the last day, I soloed to the summit of the Buzzard Perch via the Summit Scramble route, 5.5. The view from the top possessed the ultimate vantage of the City. View from atop the Buzzard Perch View all my City of Rock photos on Flickr Gear Notes: 70m rope is useful, even then an 80m rope would have been nice at times. Trailed a second when in doubt. Approach Notes: Stopping at Barley Brown's in Baker City on the way is mission critical!
  14. [TR] Dragontail Peak - Serpentine Arete 8/27/2015

    There was a rope there when we descended. We rapp'ed on our own line, pulled the other and hiked it out. Don't have a clue why it was there, but it looked like it had seen some weather. Wouldn't climb on it.