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Skeezix

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Everything posted by Skeezix

  1. Check out the Olympic Peninsula Climbers Facebook page. It is a very friendly and open community of climbers locally. After the sun returns in the spring/summer/fall there is a weekly ropeup at either the Elwha Wall or Waka Beach --10 minutes from town. There is a small indoor wall at Sound Bike & Kayak downtown. Nearest real climbing gym is on Bainbridge Island. For the most part, rock on the Olympic Peninsula is manky. Fortunately Index and Leavenworth are a day's road trip away. Waka Beach:
  2. Interesting to see this route completed. Mike Emers and I recovered Tom Thomas's body after his fall, and we never determined the cause of his accident. As my report to the AAC stated, he had a locking biner clipped to the front of his harness. We speculated that it may have been a rappelling accident that occurred while he was back-cleaning pro. Did you guys find anything hanging from the rope, or see how the rope was attached to the rock?
  3. When I was young (in the late 70's), I soloed Catapult and Midway on Castle Rock. Also scared the bejeezus out of myself by soloing Classic Crack!
  4. Poecology.org publishes a Lit Locator map that uses lat/long coordinates to map articles published online that feature a strong focus on sense of place. Many of those who frequent this forum might be interested...
  5. Glacier Meadows camp 70% melted out. Beaucoup running water --no need to melt. Our party planned to reach summit via Crystal Pass, but turned back at top of Snow Dome due to high winds and lowering cloud ceiling. You'll hopefully have better weather, but I would emphasize importance of alpine start. I don't think Olympus is the place for L.S.M. We elected not to carry crampoons early season and didn't need them. Your results may vary.
  6. PM me what you dropped, and if it's what I picked up I'll send it to you.
  7. Just got back...conditions excellent! Bear wires in place at Glacier Meadows...so don't take food canisters! Crossing Blue Glacier easy-peasy. Snow conditions up the Snow Dome excellent for step-cutting. Our party did not need crampons. Leave camp at Glacier Meadows by 3 a.m. (Local weather tends to develop late morning around the summit ridge...)
  8. That truly is a superb route. Reminds me of Nixon's nose, the way it sweeps out at the bottom. I think I'd rather always descend the WR rather than that ER choss. Looks like from your photo looking over from the bivy that the NWF NR route needs more ice pasted on there! Fuck global warming!
  9. Hey, did you guys hear that the Supreme Court upheld Obamacare?!
  10. I pronounce it "couloir."
  11. Great trip report. You guys persisted despite treacherous conditions and puky weather. When there's much less snow, and a benevolent sun shining down from above, Perfect Impasse is a fairly easy scramble across. Mountaineers in the N. Cascades should, given the choice between pitching camp on snow or heather, avoid camping, cooking, lounging, etc. on heather. It is extremely fragile and the practice of minimum-impact travel and camping techniques allows us to avoid creating human damage in beautiful places. Please forgive me if this sounds preachy. I know that when you're traveling on the edge of exhaustion you throw down where you can, and site selection can be very limited. I really enjoyed reading your TR!
  12. No. Your axe is not too short. Hold it on the uphill side when you're on steep snow. Otherwise hold the shaft and carry it horizontal. My personal preference is always a shorter, lighter, less cumbersome axe.
  13. Rest in Peace Nick Hall. I'm confident that he was doing what he loved...
  14. Dittli and I used to carry a North Face tent...I forget the name. Mostly we just carried the fly and poles and left the tent part at home. I used to have a one-yard square of bug netting that I'd drape over the top of my sleeping bag. I wore a billed cap to keep the netting off my face. One of the tarp options would probably work, but my bit of wisdom to add is the yard of bug netting. That was the key in the North Cascades.
  15. Skeezix

    YUMMY!!!

    Dude. Tha's messed up!
  16. ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZhuh...wha?...oh...ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
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