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Everything posted by Skeezix
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[TR] McMillan Spire - South Face to West Ridge 09/28/2018
Skeezix replied to BruceKaufman's topic in North Cascades
Cool TR. -
[TR] Johannesburg Mountain - NE Buttress Solo 08/01/2018
Skeezix replied to landoclimb's topic in North Cascades
Cool. -
Port Angeles winter training/climbing community
Skeezix replied to Holly T's topic in Climber's Board
Check out the Olympic Peninsula Climbers Facebook page. It is a very friendly and open community of climbers locally. After the sun returns in the spring/summer/fall there is a weekly ropeup at either the Elwha Wall or Waka Beach --10 minutes from town. There is a small indoor wall at Sound Bike & Kayak downtown. Nearest real climbing gym is on Bainbridge Island. For the most part, rock on the Olympic Peninsula is manky. Fortunately Index and Leavenworth are a day's road trip away. Waka Beach: -
Tony Reece of Hi Line Helicopters recenty passed
Skeezix replied to num1mc's topic in Climber's Board
NWMJ Tony Reece Profile -
[TR] The Craggies - Choss, Choss and Choss 9/27/2015
Skeezix replied to Devin27's topic in North Cascades
Nice teeth. -
Interesting to see this route completed. Mike Emers and I recovered Tom Thomas's body after his fall, and we never determined the cause of his accident. As my report to the AAC stated, he had a locking biner clipped to the front of his harness. We speculated that it may have been a rappelling accident that occurred while he was back-cleaning pro. Did you guys find anything hanging from the rope, or see how the rope was attached to the rock?
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When I was young (in the late 70's), I soloed Catapult and Midway on Castle Rock. Also scared the bejeezus out of myself by soloing Classic Crack!
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Poecology.org publishes a Lit Locator map that uses lat/long coordinates to map articles published online that feature a strong focus on sense of place. Many of those who frequent this forum might be interested...
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[TR] Northern Pickets (Challenger, Luna Cirque, Fury) - 8/6/2013
Skeezix replied to AOC's topic in North Cascades
Sounds like an epic trip. -
[TR] Dragontail Peak - Backbone with Fin 7/14/2013
Skeezix replied to Avalanche_Lilly's topic in Alpine Lakes
I like this. -
Glacier Meadows camp 70% melted out. Beaucoup running water --no need to melt. Our party planned to reach summit via Crystal Pass, but turned back at top of Snow Dome due to high winds and lowering cloud ceiling. You'll hopefully have better weather, but I would emphasize importance of alpine start. I don't think Olympus is the place for L.S.M. We elected not to carry crampoons early season and didn't need them. Your results may vary.
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PM me what you dropped, and if it's what I picked up I'll send it to you.
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Just got back...conditions excellent! Bear wires in place at Glacier Meadows...so don't take food canisters! Crossing Blue Glacier easy-peasy. Snow conditions up the Snow Dome excellent for step-cutting. Our party did not need crampons. Leave camp at Glacier Meadows by 3 a.m. (Local weather tends to develop late morning around the summit ridge...)
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[TR] Goode/ Logan - NEB/ Fremont glacier 8/31-9/3
Skeezix replied to Val Zephyr's topic in North Cascades
Excellent mountaineering! -
That truly is a superb route. Reminds me of Nixon's nose, the way it sweeps out at the bottom. I think I'd rather always descend the WR rather than that ER choss. Looks like from your photo looking over from the bivy that the NWF NR route needs more ice pasted on there! Fuck global warming!
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[TR] Mt. Goode - NE Buttress 7/20/2012
Skeezix replied to SmilingWhiteKnuckles's topic in North Cascades
That's a great route. Long descent! -
Hey, did you guys hear that the Supreme Court upheld Obamacare?!
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I pronounce it "couloir."
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[TR] Challenger - via Easy Ridge, Perfect Pass, Whatcom Pass 7/26/2011
Skeezix replied to Rad's topic in North Cascades
Great trip report. You guys persisted despite treacherous conditions and puky weather. When there's much less snow, and a benevolent sun shining down from above, Perfect Impasse is a fairly easy scramble across. Mountaineers in the N. Cascades should, given the choice between pitching camp on snow or heather, avoid camping, cooking, lounging, etc. on heather. It is extremely fragile and the practice of minimum-impact travel and camping techniques allows us to avoid creating human damage in beautiful places. Please forgive me if this sounds preachy. I know that when you're traveling on the edge of exhaustion you throw down where you can, and site selection can be very limited. I really enjoyed reading your TR! -
No. Your axe is not too short. Hold it on the uphill side when you're on steep snow. Otherwise hold the shaft and carry it horizontal. My personal preference is always a shorter, lighter, less cumbersome axe.
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Rest in Peace Nick Hall. I'm confident that he was doing what he loved...
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Dittli and I used to carry a North Face tent...I forget the name. Mostly we just carried the fly and poles and left the tent part at home. I used to have a one-yard square of bug netting that I'd drape over the top of my sleeping bag. I wore a billed cap to keep the netting off my face. One of the tarp options would probably work, but my bit of wisdom to add is the yard of bug netting. That was the key in the North Cascades.
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