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jlamo

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About jlamo

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    stranger
  • Birthday 05/25/1966

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  • Location
    Portland
  1. [TR] columbia river gorge - any 12/14/2008

    You still looking for a partner? I got the day, desire... check pms
  2. I confess that this is not my story, it is my partner’s. We were climbing partners, but now when I call her my partner I mean she is my life partner. We have one kid together and another on the way, and all the good stuff that goes along with that. But alas, that is another story for the “I just fell in love with my climbing partner” forum. Some of the names have been changed… In the mid 90’s DR was working in a gear shop in Portland and having just broken up with her boyfriend, she was looking for a climbing partner. In walks this guy we shall call the Boy Scout. BS is fresh off of K-2 and has a lengthy climbing resume. Besides he has a renowned reputation as quite an alpine climber, just ask him. They agreed to climb N Ridge on Stuart together. On Friday they bivied at the trailhead in DR’s Subaru and then left real early in the morning, traveling light, planning to carry over and bivy on route. The approach and the first part of the route was a little slower than DR would have expected or liked, but she is a nice supportive person and willing to give the benefit of the doubt to someone she just met, especially a Himalayan hard man. When they reach the Gendarme it is late in the day. The Boy Scout is pretty worked and he declines the lead even though it is his turn. DR figures “fine with me, the first is supposed to be the more straight forward of the two gendarme pitches”. DR leads without her pack, hauls it up and then belays the Boy Scout up. He struggles grunts and takes but manages to get up to the belay. At that point he again refuses to lead the next pitch. DR can’t believe it because she has never really climbed an alpine route with someone who can’t hold up their end of the rope. She was a naive gal and never expected that someone would misrepresent themselves in that sort of situation. She leads the pitch and sets up to haul her pack. The Boy Scout shouts up that he can’t climb with his pack on, so he wants her to haul both packs. She begins to haul and immediately hears the sickening sound of a backpack falling a long ways down. It is her pack that fell of course, but miraculously the Boy Scout’s pack arrives at the belay intact. By that time it is dark and time to bivy. He actually makes a pass at her and so she declines to share his sleeping bag and suffers through the night on the rope with just her wind breaker. The next morning they get up finish the route. DR descends the Cascadian Couloir in her rock shoes. Somewhere on the hike out she politely suggests that the Boy Scout let her wear his larger rock shoes to give her at least some minimal relief. The Boy Scout declines her request saying that he doesn’t want to ruin his rock shoes. When they arrive back at the car, they don’t have the car keys. The Boy Scout volunteers to hot wire her car, which to his credit he does without too much trouble, the rub being that the steering wheel is locked. So he then proceeds to tear apart the steering column of her car. DR never heard from him again. It was hundreds to repair the car, the electrical system never worked right again. We were all at the same party a few years later and he didn’t even acknowledge that he knew her!
  3. Thanks for your interest and sorry if I didn't get back quickly. I did not anticipate there would be that much interest. I updated the list, most of the ironmongery is gone we are down to the cold weather gear. We have more expedition stuff too PM me for misc. stuff like overboots and expedition mitts or what you are looking for. Cheers, Jeff
  4. shoooowah! I can't keep up. Most stuff is taken, i will get through my PMs and then repost what is left!
  5. My wife informs me that I will not be getting a job taking photos for the Patagonia catalog, but I just posted a few more pics, a couple of the down suit and one of the Dana Alpine pack (green). The red one is definitely a Terraplane, and it is a great pack if you want to carry that much stuff! Also, just found a Chouinard Collins Butt Bag belay seat $5
  6. I posted some pictures in the for sale gallery, but didn't really figure out how to link them up. If you can't find pictures of what you are looking for PM me your email and I will send them directly to you.
  7. Most of the stuff is gone, if you see something you like, make an offer... Cold Weather : (2) pairs of Millet OneSport Everest $350 ea - sizes 10.5 and 14. Size 10 from 2004, one expedition, others are older w/ two expeditions. Gators have some patches but liners and inner boot are in excellent shape. Dana Alpine back pack $50 - size long with a medium waist belt. This is a bit smaller but still large capacity. Has custom gear loops on belt Feathered Friends, Expedition down suit $500 - Size large, orange, in excellent condition. Climbing Petzl Quick Draws $10 ea - Petzl spirits, all in good condition - about 10 left Also found some additional stuff in storage: Crampons $10 ea - I have about 2 pairs of foot fangs Metolius tarp style rope bag - $15
  8. May be overkill for what you need but I have a pair of Millet/One Sport Everest 13.5 like these... Millet OneSport
  9. v-thread (Abalakov) musings

    Once when demonstrating VT to a group, I placed one near the ground and had everyone yard on it to demonstrate the strength. Well the cord busted, when I looked closely it appeared that it might have been cut. I don't know if it was a fluke, bad tat, or the ice was real brittle that day. My theory is that the edge of the ice where the two holes meet was so sharp it cut the cord. Now I always grab the ends of the cord after I thread and before I tie it off and I floss it back and forth a couple of times to smooth things out in case there is a sharp edge where the two holes meet. I haven't had a failure since and that was probably 14 years ago...
  10. Favorite Books on Climbing

    "Ascent of Rum Doodle" and Dave Robert's Moments of Doubt" as it was the first climbing book I read (over and over...)
  11. Boskoff overdue in China

    Also see this... http://fowlerboskoff.blogspot.com/
  12. Books

    Still have some good books remaing... Mt. Rainier A Climbing Guide, Gauthier, 1999 Rocky Butte Quarry, Pajunas & McGown 1989 An Ice Climber's Guide to Northern New England, 2nd Ed, Wilcox, 1992 Washington Rock Climbs, Smoot, 1989 Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, 2nd edition, Webster, 1992 Climber's Guide to Smith Rock, Watts, 1992 Portland Rock Climbs, Olson, 1993 Cascade Alpine Guide Climbing and High Routes, 3: Rainy Pass to Fraser River, 2nd edition, Becky, 1995 Cascade Alpine Guide Climbing and High Routes, 2: Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass, 2nd edition, Becky, 1989 A Poorperson's Guidebook Free Climbs of Devils Tower, 10th Edition, McGee and the Last Pioneer Woman, 1992 Going Higher The Story of Man and Altitude, Houston, 1987 The Rock Climbers's Guide Montana, Falcon, 1995 Joshua Tree Rock Climbing Guide, Vogel, 1986
  13. Books

    The following are sold: The Rockclimbers' Guide to Squamish, Kevin McLane, 1992 The Rock Mountains of Canada South, AAC & ACC Climbers Guide, 1979 Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Volume 2, Nelson & Potterfield, 2000 Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies, Dougherty, 1999 (1 copy, still have one with no cover) Vantage Rock, Stanley, 1995 Backcountry Avalanche Awareness, 7th edition, Jamieson, 2000 Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue, Selters, 1990 A Topo Guide to Icicle Canyon Rock Climbs, Kramer, 1989 Cascade Alpine Guide Climbing and High Routes, 3: Rainy Pass to Fraser River, 2nd edition, Becky, 1995 (1 copy sold, one remaining)
  14. Books

    We are getting rid of the doubles in our family, all are used but all in serviceable shape... The Rockclimbers' Guide to Squamish, Kevin McLane, 1992 Mt. Rainier A Climbing Guide, Gauthier, 1999 Rocky Butte Quarry, Pajunas & McGown 1989 An Ice Climber's Guide to Norther New England, 2nd Ed, Wilcox, 1992 Oregon Rock, A Climber's Guide, Thomas, 1983 Washington Rock Climbs, Smoot, 1989 Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, 2nd edition, Webster, 1992 The Rock Mountains of Canada South, AAC & ACC Climbers Guide, 1979 Climber's Guide to Smith Rock, Watts, 1992 (2 copies) Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Volume 2, Nelson & Potterfield, 2000 Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue, Selters, 1990 Alaska-Yukon Handbook, Castleman & Pitcher, 1992 Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies, Dougherty, 1999 (2 copies, one with no cover) Portland Rock Climbs, Olson, 1993 Vantage Rock, Stanley, 1995 Backcountry Avalanche Awareness, 7th edition, Jamieson, 2000 A Topo Guide to Icicle Canyon Rock Climbs, Kramer, 1989 Cascade Alpine Guide Climbing and High Routes, 3: Rainy Pass to Fraser River, 2nd edition, Becky, 1995 (2 copies) Cascade Alpine Guide Climbing and High Routes, 3: Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass, 2nd edition, Becky, 1989 A Poorperson's Guidebook Free Climbs of Devils Tower, 10th Edition, McGee and the Last Pioneer Woman, 1992 Going Higher The Story of Man and Altitude, Houston, 1987 The Rock Climbers's Guide Montana, Falcon, 1995 Joshua Tree Rock Climbing Guide, Vogel, 1986 Misc Rock and Ice and Climbing Mags 1992 to present, probably about 20. Make an offer.
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