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fenderfour

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About fenderfour

  • Rank
    spray'prentice
  • Birthday 01/20/1978

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  • Occupation
    Your mom
  1. Best Vehicle setup for Alpinism?

    I'm not sure I would recommend an Element for towing. I've got a 2011. It's a fat bastard with a relatively small engine. Things go slow with a full load of friends driving over mountain passes. I'm not sure if I would also ask it to pull even a small trailer (caravan).
  2. I saw a poster in Cap Hill yesterday and I thought I would spread the word: http://squamishfestival.com/ I'm not shilling, just warning the community about the shitshow Squamish will be that weekend.
  3. Size 14-15 Intuition Liners

    and gone!
  4. Size 14-15 Intuition Liners

    Hey you big-footed sonofabitch. I've got a pair of short intuition liners size 14/15 that you can have for free. These are made for plastic mountaineering boots, and are not tall enough for ski or snowboard boots. Pickup in Seattle Central District only. They are in great shape. I formed them, used them on one climb and didn't like them at all. That was about 5 years ago. They have lived in the closet ever since. You can reform them yourself using your own oven if you are careful. Check for videos on Youtube.
  5. golden arch - index

    Generally, yes. It only takes one local pissing off the top to make the Waterway Route a waterway.
  6. Shuksan Sulphide/SE Rib

    It's easy, just like it always is. There are crevasses along the route. You will have to cross them. I don't recommend soloing the glacier.
  7. golden arch - index

    First pitch of the waterway traverses in from the left and ends on the big ledge to the left of the GA P3 anchor. Bring cam hooks, ballnuts, and a big hook to climb the pitch clean. You can walk along the ledge to get there. CFF and I removed some 1/4 split shanks and replaced them with 1/2 SS 5 piece bolts. The plan was to rap down to replace the bolts of the first pitch of GA, but it was too hot, we were too lazy, we ran out of beer, etc... The arch pitch doesn't need any hammering. Bring cam hooks, ballnuts, and brass. The pitch after the arch involves some sketchy hooking on cornflakes stuck to the wall. Have fun with that.
  8. 1st time to squamish, need suggestions

    World's toughest milkman, Smoke Bluffs Connection (due the 5.8 to the left of jabberwocky)
  9. Leavenworth Conditions

    Some of the climbs at the Pearly Gates were dry on Sunday. The far right is very wet. In: Loaves of Fun, No Room for Squares, Cloud 9, and Easy Pickens Out: Celestial Groove (total swamp), Leap of faith, Pearly gates, poison balance, etc...
  10. Seeking US size 15/16 mountaineering boots

    Start trying on 14's. Some are bigger than others. The Lowa Mountain Pro (in 14) fits my size 15's.
  11. I've been using one for about two years now. I don't know what fabric it is, probably the EVent. No overfill, but I only use it in the spring/summer. You hard-assed bastards must like to suffer. It's a good bag. So far, I've paired it with a FF Helios and been toasty down to about freezing while sleeping on snow with a Therm-a-rest prolite 3 3/4 length. I'm 6'3" 215. The bag is snug but I haven't had any unusual problems with compression and cold spots.
  12. How long should wands be?

    I recommend against relying on wands to mark cracks. The cracks don't really care where you put wands and will open up in the most inopportune places and times. I used wands for a number of years. They made me angry, I realized there was a better way.
  13. Carabiner Failure...?

    Stop this microfracture business. That's not how aluminum fails. Aluminum is a ductile material that deform much more readily than it cracks. The cracks that do develop are not hidden. Material failure is a pretty complicated business. A lot more info is needed to even speculate what went wrong. Right now, the only assumption that can be made is that the carabiner broke.
  14. How long should wands be?

    I would get a cheap GPS and use the 5 foot bamboo stick to make a small fort for the neighborhood children. I haven't had issues with reception on Rainer. Once you are on the glacier it's pretty wide open. You can keep it tracking the entire climb so you can retrace, or you can turn it on every few minutes to set a waypoint. Either way, keep it inside your jacket to keep the batteries warm.
  15. kevino's Alpental updates

    I heard about a neat route off I-90 that is a recommended solo: http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=609840&confirm_post=12
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