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About lunger

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    addicted to cc.com
  • Birthday 12/20/2000


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  1. nice report! whiskey is an essential ingredient to camping in the crescent cr basin environs. 4 hours to the drop-in point near the chopping block? damn, either that trail has been beat in, and/or you guys were moving. with that kind of steam, you shoulda checked out the central buttress on the S face of Terror, a worthwhile climb imo. that Wild Hair Crack climb does rank high on my list of shorter climbs worth the hike...wild place, with neat history.
  2. looks like a great trip. agree the Leap offers a prime cragging situation. Haystack was my first ever climb, on a lark while visiting my bro in CA. his (relative newbie) buddy had led the crux pitch, that I followed wide-eyed, only to arrive at the belay to hear he wasn't confident in the anchor--my brother would later describe the anchor as 'whimsical'. thanks for the opp'y to revisit that place, good spot for sure.
  3. Very cool to see a repeat (already)! Nice work. Glad you found the way in from the south works fine. Haha re: your signature, apropos for this particular climb Would like to see some pics if you got'em
  4. fantastisch! both the trip and the photography. that n despair summit is a special place. i recognize that rusty film tin; what's with the little plastic container, a new register, or something else? and the axes deployed in the heather--classic. that's either a throwing disc on Tim's pack, or a portable toilet. in that vein, my guess for the origins of "Shrundy" are not public-forum-appropriate. glad i stopped in here at cc.com to see your trip, and seano's impressive feat. thanks for posting this
  5. nice report mr mutz, looks v, fun. up close, those upper pitches look as good as we imagined them. and the bombay maw approx as 'entertaining', as bellows puts it. don't know whether to feel honored or insulted re: the name. "UW's improbable coif" might be better, but i digress. appreciate you thinking of me, wish i could've joined you guys.
  6. great TR, sweet trip! dig those rugged peaks of crescent cr basin. also, some nice photos across the way of despair and triumph. "I think i may be done with the Pickets. But it was a trip i will always cherish." that's easy to say now. just when you think you're out, they pull you back in.
  7. well that looks like fun. "on the way to whiskey", the essence of a fine moment strong work fellas, way to snag a prime line
  8. nice trip and report! great route, and looks like you found it in v good condition. do you have pics off to the right of your route, for example of the Mowich face area? thanks in advance if you do
  9. Cool-looking climb and adventure, and some nice shots of it! That shallow, two-lobe cam placement looks like a classic application for a tri-cam. #tricamfanboy #ImWithTricams Was also intrigued by the ribs and other rock off to the left...compact rock could make that steep stuff spicy though. Thanks for the report; re: access to adventure around here, agree, we are very fortunate.
  10. Sounds (well, perhaps with the exception of the Poison track--nice find) and looks like a great trip! About how long did it take to get to the bivy under Little Devil from the TH? (Would like to advise folks re: approach to Fallen A.) And yes, fantastic photography as always. What are we looking at in the 5th pic, 1st B&W--is that Triumph?
  11. hey Rad, we deproached a different and slightly better way (further up-valley), but i think the best way is probably to head uphill at the first old-ish growth opportunity (far east opp'y)--but getting to that point might be more problematic down low. on the way up, after crossing the W fork, we had followed a dry wash expediently through the brush, and it took us on a probably-suboptimal path. and definitely not a desirable descent route! did i mention the devil's club, nettles, and sundry sticker bushes, among other Cascade delicacies woven into the alder, scrub pine, and berry bushes? a fine and complete meal. Jason, I remember remarking on that parked car: "where the hell are they going?" Look forward to your report (and pics). Yes, that's a wild area; and agree that the trip would be a reasonable 3 days from the south, or 2 for a reasonably fast party. yeah Tom, after that approach with a full pack, I think I'm ready for J-berg. Jeremy, I'd like to hear more about these pipes...and see any pics you might have. forgot to mention that we'd like to call the crux pitch "the scythe", a reference of course to the resemblance of the sharp-edged arete to the Reaper's harvester, and to the now-eradicated loose slayer. been buried with the school year cranking up, meant to respond earlier. thanks for the comments all, hope that you can climb this someday. happy to provide beta for folks, and hoping to hear tales.
  12. On Sept. 14, Chris Mutzel and I climbed a ~1,000' new route on the NNE-facing arete of Fallen Angel: Act like you're having fun III 5.10+. (John Roper, who climbed the peak from the S side decades ago, has an area-appropriate name for this striking feature: the "Grim Reaper Arete".) After a 100' or so of soloing, we climbed a total of 8 roped pitches to the summit. The pitches went 5.6, 4th, mid-5th, 5.8+, 5.10+, 5.10, mid-5th, and 5.9 (although there might be a mid-5th alternative for the last traversing pitch). Big-picture photos from John Scurlock and John Roper, respectively, below. In Scurlock's, the line drops towards the viewer (along the clean arete), and then winds a bit through the ledges to the left; in Roper's, the line initially drops down the right skyline, and ultimately foots to the left of the tree in the foreground. Approach notes: I took a gamble and lost on this one. Looking at satellite imagery, I had hoped we'd be able to approach from the north by tying into some suspected old-ish growth timber (there was some) on the climb up from the W fork of Newhalem Cr to the basin below our objective. If it worked, it would cut off a lot of distance and 1000s of v.f. vs the S-side approach from the Monogram Lk / Lookout Mtn trailhead. While we did quite well from the car at Newhalem Cr to the final climb from its W fork to the basin, above that we encountered just about every terrain obstacle the subalpine Cascades have to offer--somewhere high up on the BW scale, perhaps even establishing "New Wave" Bushwhack Ratings. A physical, but not mental, respite was offered by a sustained stretch of moss-coated 4th class frog-chimney that got us through the lower cliff bands: (I'm advancing my "little buddy" walking/bashing stick ahead of me.) Bottom line: approach from the south and enjoy a longer but scenic alpine tramp, unless you want to embrace the aforementioned travel and route-finding challenges. (I’ll buy good six-packs for anyone that repeats our approach and reports back with an optimal way up to that basin.) The climb itself was great. The rock, even the junky-looking first pitch, was quite solid and clean, requiring only sporadic, expected alpine gardening. The harder technical climbing, all ~3 pitches of it, was high quality, fun climbing on bright gneiss. Some was downright Index-like. We swapped leads, with Chris drawing the crux 5.10+ pitch 5--spectacular--which traveled near and then on the edge of the arete. On this pitch he expertly avoided a belayer-slayer that I inadvertently trundled while following, which marred our otherwise pure ascent as I weighted the rope to avoid a crushed foot. A reminder that you can't afford to lose focus for a second out here. Chris climbing the crux: Me following the crux: My 5.10 pitch 6 was more like a 15' boulder problem followed by scrambling on the arete's crest. Then we had two more pitches of rambling peppered with boulder moves over a sub-summit and the summit. We didn't find a reported register, but probably just overlooked it. Summit views from this western outpost of the N-Central Cascades were unique. Descent: from just W of the summit, we used a single 70m rope to make 4 rappels (all slung horns) down the South face; first directly down a rib, then angling skier's left to alight on an exposed ramp that you can down-climb E, which is where you need to go anyway to gain a notch that gets you back to the basin. (Unless you approach from / camp on the S of the peak, which I recommended above.) We were back at the bivy by 4pm, drinking big cans of beer. Given the complexity of the return route to the car, we decided to spend another night at comfortable bivy rather than risking the descent in fading light or night. Despite the extra workload imposed by my approach mistake, we had a blast (particularly on the rock) and recommend this route. Origin of the route name: C is relentlessly ebullient, so high on the climb it felt appropriate to yell the eventual route name before snapping a photo--this provided both a good belly laugh, and a mantra for the long 'shwhack back to the car. There are a few more photos in the gallery. And over here are even more photos, and a phone video Chris took of me trundling and muttering "explosion". Gear notes: Medium rack; tri-cams were money, brought pins but didn't use them. Compact ice tool useful for the occasional gardening. We didn't bring crampons, but you would want them earlier in the season, or when sensibly approaching from the south.
  13. [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016

    Nice, looks fun. Still need to climb this one.