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  2. [TR] - Isolation Traverse with Alternate Finish

    OK, this is back on my list! I'd been on either end many times over the years, but I can see that I need to connect them.
  3. Today
  4. [TR] - Isolation Traverse with Alternate Finish

    A phenomenal classic trip. Thank you for the well described adventure.
  5. Is this a typo? I wish we'd found that variation on the north ridge!
  6. Your Favorite Spring Steep Snow Climbs?

    yeah in select climb but n face shuksan is great steep snow climb in spring. i guess you may need to define what a steep snow climb means? how steep? and how long? n face maude is another. even in summer time. when the north cascade hwy gets open, there are plenty of nice snow gulleys to go up. One being the gulley that splits the north side of whistler peak. it is real obvious when climbing in the liberty bell group. not sure the name of the route on whistler as I don't have my guidebook here. But it is a real nice snow climb to the ridgeline, then a small bit of manky rock (3rd class) to the main face and summit. we descended the same way up. also, if looking for smaller objectives, I had good luck just going into snoq pass and wandering around till you find something worth doing. Seem to remember there being some gulleys in pineapple basin above source lake. North facing side of course. just get off these spring snow climbs before the sun beats down on the snow pack. Big wet point release slides came down on the north couloir of colchuck on us and it was not even late in day but the sun was beating on this one small slab all morning.
  7. I’m not sure why I didn’t start here with trying to find a partner, so I copy pasted my MP post. Let me start with my days off, which are Monday-Wednesday, and possible Sunday or Thursday depending on when my boss hires more people. I plan of taking vacations this summer to possibly Chamonix, the Sierras, Tetons, or maybe just tick off a lot of my goal climbs around here and Canada. I am a competent skier of Cascadian concrete, infamous tree skiing with or without proper snow coverage, and always being super pumped to get after big objectives. I like to do a lot of planning and logistics. I started leading WI3 this winter with several trips to Canada, and I would like, no I NEED to climb ice. No drive is too far. I have been known to get pink eye very quickly that aligns to positive weather forecasts, and have to call out of work. It's incredible. I am looking for partners of any age, gender, color who are: 1.Know what they are doing, or at least very humble and acknowledge their shortcomings and willing to learn. 2. Have an excellent attitude, as well as an entertaining array of music to listen to while driving to who knows where. 3. When you say you're climbing, you actually go and are reasonably punctual. That should about do it. Here's the Spring/Summer climb to do list not already planned: Rainier- Kautz Glacier, Ptarmigan Ridge, Curtis Ridge, N. Mowich, DC Olympus- Blue Glacier Glacier Peak Mt. Robson- Kain Face Ptarmigan Traverse Had in mind to swing Adams and Helens on the same trip, S. Ridge and Worm Flows. Mt. Hood Lethold Couloir, cooper spur, or whatever ski descent is good. Bugaboos- N E Thing 5.4-5.10 Mt. Baker-N Ridge or other. Anything Icy in the Enchantments. Would repeat N Ridge Stuart because it was awesome!!! Ski traverse of enchantments. Mt Fay Centre Ice Bulge Direct Nooksack Tower Sierras- U Notch and V Notch Couloir, Dark Star, Harding Route Keeler Needle its all good there. Tetons-Grand Traverse Also need a belay partner at Vertical World Redmond, and if anyone wants to carpool to Snoqualmie Summit the next few weeks I am up there 2-3 days a week. I will wear my Lulu Lemon if you wear yours. Be safe, Kyle
  8. Your Favorite Spring Steep Snow Climbs?

    So if you've probably done the NBC on Colchuck, perhaps a step up to the NEBC? Some others: whatever that gully is on Argonaut. There is an interesting couloir facing Hwy 20 off Whistler Peak, with a spicy mixed finish The couloir on SEWS It's in the book, but the Stuart Glacier Couloir is way up on my list Whitehorse is a slog, but the top is fun and a bit on the steep side More of a winterish climb if you want steep snow, but Whitechuck is fun With the right amount of snow, the North face ramp on Wilman's peak is fun. Or go up to East Wilman's. Steep snow to steep rock finish That the kind of stuff you are looking for @jared_j?
  9. Anyone tried to mate up a big "heat exchanger" type pot with an XGK or other white gas stove? How did it go? Did you save fuel? Considering this for trips with lots of water melting.
  10. Selling a BD Raven 70cm ice axe (with pick protector) in excellent condition and a pair of BD Sabertooth pro step-in (automatic) crampons, also in excellent condition. Used a handful of times. The ice axe is $40 OBO and the crampons are $90 OBO. Pick up in Seattle. Ice axe: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/d/black-diamond-raven-ice-axe/6537987851.html Crampons: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/d/black-diamond-sabertooth-pro/6537989536.html
  11. It should be noted that most or all of these routes involve mountain navigation and route-finding skills. If the route is 5.4 but you start up the wrong crack or don't cross the crest at the right point you can quickly find yourself in terrain that is 5.9 or harder.
  12. Here's your route, Darin: Sunchips. Not particularly alpine, but looks like fun climbing. From a Stuart Zone camp, I'd be looking at the scramble routes up Argonaut or Colchcuck Pks. Distinctly alpine and all you need are boots and ice axes
  13. Hey Kevin, I'm planning on doing the North Ridge of Kulshan (Baker) in June and I'm looking for partners. I generally prefer do such routes with people I've already climbed with, but we can discuss it. I also will likely be in the NY area in late May so it's possible we could climb something on the east coast.
  14. topo Sloan - NW Buttress??

    OK got it, thanks off white
  15. Yesterday
  16. Seeking conditions update on lane peak

    Misread the title. Nothing to see here.
  17. Less climbing gear means more alcohol and fishing gear! Or forget the Enchantments and drive to the Bugaboos and climb the best 5.4 on the planet.
  18. Steven Hawkings

    i bet all your action figures are cherry
  19. easy multi-pitch routes in the Enchantments

    5.4 will limit you . northwest buttress on Stuart goes about 5.0 if you stop at the ridge crest. to continue to the summit, finding a 5.4 line on west ridge of Stuart might be tricky, likely more like 5.6.. north ridge of stuart (50 classic climbs) goes about 5.6 northwest buttress and northeast couloir (possible ice or snow) on Argonaut go about 5.6. cross to the south side of mountaineer pass and the south face of Argonaut may have a line at 5.4. east ridge of Sherpa from mountaineer pass goes about 5.5. northeast face of false summit on Stuart supposedly goes at 5.6. possibly a 5-easy line on northwest face of Colchuck, but that is undocumented as far as I know. all of these routes will have some snow on approach, even in August. I've climbed ice in Argonaut's northeast couloir Labor Day weekend.... all of these would be fairly long days for a family group (unless your family name is Lowe), but none are terribly committing - escape/retreat would be reasonable in most cases. do take fishing gear for Stuart Lake.
  20. I agree with everything said above. In my experience, carrying a rope, rack, harness, helmets, and related climbing gear adds a lot of weight. You could do trad multi-pitch lines in Icicle Creek canyon before or after your trip and be lighter and happier without lugging that into the back country. Note that the tiny lakes above Stuart Lake are surrounded by incredible boulders and there are plenty of peaks nearby to scramble/climb. There is an unofficial trail that leads up there. Might be helpful to have a topo to guide you. Enjoy!
  21. easy multi-pitch routes in the Enchantments

    The west ridge of Stuart is a classic 5.4 climb. However I get the impression you're asking for short, multipitch recommendations. The w ridge from Stuart Lake would be a very, very long day with miles of exposed scrambling both up and down. Unfortunately the Stuart Lake Zone is a long ways from the Core Zone. From where the trail breaks to Colchuck lake its about 4 miles and 3500' of trail just to access the plateau of the core zone. West Ridge of Prusik (the classic easy moderate) is a couple miles away from there. Doable in a long day for a fit, fast party. Maybe that describes your family? Further west of Prusik Peak there are a number of short excellent low 5th class routes on Razorback, Comet Spire and other peaks. But that's not a possible day trip from where you'll be. Somewhere on this site there's a TR for an easy 3 pitch (5.6?) crag climb by colchuck lake. That might be your best bet for some alpine amibence. I couldn't find it. Maybe someone else can. Ultimately based on where you can camp I don't think you have many options. Maybe leave the gear in the car and enjoy the backpacking and scrambling. Then do some cragging in the leavenworth area. Midway on Castle Rock is the classic low-5th multipitch with a nice summit to boot.
  22. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    This is my experience, and why I'm here and some of my partners are not. They didn't screw up any more than any of us who alpine climb, and I didn't learn anything from their deaths that I didn't already know.
  23. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    Gets back to that frequency argument though. A smaller risk at a higher frequency can give a shorter expectancy than a larger risk with lower frequency.
  24. Steven Hawkings

    I always liked his nerdcore rap battle with MC Frontalot
  25. for sale FF Expedition Sleeping Bags

    Fran,. Are the bags still available. How old are they. I am based in Chicago shipping cost . Thanks Chris
  26. Seeking conditions update on lane peak

    The rangers are out and about on skis regularly and could give you an update on conditions @mzvarner if you call down to Longmire.
  27. Mt Hood Sat 3/24

    I'd love to go. I've been to the top 3 times over the past year. I don't have much gear for anything technical though so I would probably need to stick to the south side route. I'm safe, in pretty good shape and motivated. My name is Luke. Only caveat is that I'd need to start climbing late Friday night or early Saturday morning so I could be back to the car about 11 or 12. I've got a commitment on Saturday night. Give me a call or text 503-819-6680 if interested.
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